April 23, 2014 at 1:37 am #1969
Does anyone have an autopilot on their boat?
How did you mount it? Does anyone have pictures?
ThanksApril 23, 2014 at 1:49 am #3334
I have a Raymarine Autohelm 1000. Mounted one end on the deck with their base mount. It is low profile and doesn’t hurt to sit on it. You will need 3 extension rods on the arm to reach the tiller. I assume you have the coamings removed? If you don’t, mount a block of wood to it with the right size hole in it. Make sure the grain is cross, not vertical.May 1, 2014 at 7:30 pm #3335
I mounted a Raymarine ST-2000 last year this way (see photo), and it works well for modest conditions (so I’m installing the EV-100 later this year for the Bermuda 1-2 next year). Luckily, Raymarine sells a variety of brackets and extensions so you can put these things just about anywhere and the critical dimensions are fairly well explained in the installation manual.May 2, 2014 at 2:03 pm #3336
Thanks for the info. I did not remove my coamings. Is there any advantage not having them?
Thanks for the Picture Ray it did help me a lot. I see you do not have your coamings either. Any particular reason it is so?
It is though being in St Louis with no other Olson Owner close by to exchange ideas in person.May 2, 2014 at 2:36 pm #3337
Coamings. Pain in the butt, literally. But they keep you on top of the deck when heeled. I removed them and put low blocks on the seat top for a foot brace for the skipper and trimmer. Much nicer.
Then you can mount the round flat mount on top of the deck for the 1000. You will need 3 extensions of 4″ (I think that is right) to get to the pin on the tiller. For deliveries and brief help sailing, the 1000 is adequate. Singlehanding in a breeze: 2000 model is faster.May 2, 2014 at 3:13 pm #3338
Hey, Jean- I removed them for exactly the reason Bruce mentions, and I like to sit up on the side-deck, not down in the cockpit for visibility reasons and to see tell-tales, etc… I hear ya about being the lonesome Olson owner!
About your other question about mainsheet configuration- I had the standard Harken mainsheet block attached to the traveler car, but found a Spinlock brand that works a bit better. The cleat was starting to wear out, and I would sometimes have trouble uncleating in big breeze. The Spinlock clutch is the opposite- uncleating in any breeze is a snap- it’s more difficult cleating, though, which is the way I’d rather have it if I had to pick. not sure that makes sense…May 3, 2014 at 12:09 pm #3340
When I had my Olson 30, I had a removable block of wood with the pin socket for the tiller pilot mounted to the coaming.One advantage to having coamings.
After looking at Ray’s position on his tiller pilot, you need to keep in mind, the farther you mount the it away from the tiller post, the more leverage and control the tiller pilot will have. Try to mount it so it near the end of the tiller for best leverage.May 3, 2014 at 12:55 pm #3341
Jean- to address what Bill’s saying; that dimension is one of the more critical dimensions specified in the instructions, and you usually have < 1 cm (fore and aft) to mount the tiller attachment for the pilot. I would guess they are all different, but the autopilots are designed with specific force and throw. If you go too far away from the rudder post (which would be easier on the pilot, obviously), then you need a longer worm drive in the design of the pilot.May 3, 2014 at 3:11 pm #3342
1. The 1000 model is a little slow, but I think strong enough to mount at mid tiller in all but stormy conditions.
2. You have to consider the amount of swing the autohelm is capable of. At the end of the tiller, it will be strong, but limited in travel and poor results in wave action.
3. If you think you need the horsepower and max swing, get the 2000.
I mounted the pin for my autohelm just forward of mid tiller.May 6, 2014 at 1:04 am #3344
Ray- I am using the measurements provided by Navico, for my TP-100.
Bruce- The TP is also the entry model tiller pilot. I got it online for about 200 bucks, and for now I only use the pilot for entering the harbor, raising sails, and tacking and jibing in moderate winds at Carlyle Lake. Like Ray I also plan on adding something stronger for future Solo Races (Mackinac, Transpac, Bermuda 1-2) and keep the TP100 as backup… but that will come in the future.
I just fabricated a mount out of some crome tubing I had laying around and a flag staff holder (I am a budget sailor). I´ll post a picture soon.
CheersJune 29, 2014 at 5:36 pm #3420
How did the installation go? Can you post photos?
I’m trying to figure out how to rig up the TP-22, it has very specific location, that lands it in a middle of nowhere above the seat and about 6″ below the tiller.
Has any one tried mounting the pilot backwards on a separate tiller extension above the aft hatch?June 30, 2014 at 2:54 am #3423
I had the same issue, the pilot falls nowhere. I fabricated a mount and I am finishing the install this next weekend. I´ll test it and put pictures on monday.
I will add a second pilot, probably a Ev-100 or B&G Triton later on as a main pilot for really long passages and keep the TP for my short daysails and motoring here at the lake.
I like the backwards tiller as a way to not clutter the cockpit, but I think it will just be something else on the way to the outboard.
I also like a lot the Andrew Evans Storm sail steering system which saves battery (youtube).
CheersJuly 2, 2014 at 3:50 pm #3435
OK, here it is.
I had to make some parts, (one could buy these from Simrad for $190, but I just flat out refuse to pay that much for a piece of metal and a tube).
The extension was the best way to go as I don’t have to have a mounting bracket.
It seems to work fine, I’m getting a big power spike when it engages, is that normal?November 15, 2016 at 4:07 am #4998
A little late for your purposes but attached are a couple of pics of my install of a Raymarine X5. The controller is mounted on the cabin bulkhead. Since it appears that most failures of these tiller pilots are caused by saltwater migrating into the cylinder I covered the shaft with a shock-absorber boot sealed with rubber bushings and clamps on each end. I added a velcro loop on the mount end to keep the anchor pin secure…not a huge concern if the ram is perfectly horizontal but insurance in case. I originally had an cheap 3 way plug that was always getting wet and cutting out. I have since replaced that with a Marinco plug designed for a trolling motor and solved that problem. 3 Years and no problems so far.
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