February 21, 2014 at 12:49 pm #1958
Any thoughts ? I’ve seen wood , poitr’s carbon fiber , the aluminum tube i have came with the boat (not instaled ) …….is it recomended , I’ve made a template transferred it t auto cad , and was going to have it lazer cut out of stainless 2pc .100 thick and tig them together to make a u channel of sorts.February 21, 2014 at 6:49 pm #3260
I did a Google picture search “Olson 30 Beam of Destiny” and saw a couple of ideas.
My boat has a pretty sturdy mast step reinforcement, but she was raced so hard that my chainplate bolts are all misaligned. Since I plan on redoing the chainplate fixing points on the bulkhead I will also install a BOD and jockstraps. I saw some discussions on SA about this and my thinking is: Whatever does not kill you makes you stronger.
I Like Piotr BOD a lot, I like the shape and the CF, But I also like the ones that have the wood look.
Input of people who have done these additions is greatly appreciated.February 22, 2014 at 1:17 pm #3261
Autocad….. I feel soo low tech. I used a cardboard template in order to follow the ceiling as accurately as possible. I used plywood that I had laying around and laminated(using epoxy) the various sheets of plywood until an 1.5 inches thick. Then cut out the BOD, from the template, about two inches in height. In other words, the BOD follows the ceiling protruding only 2inches. I wrapped with a couple of layers of carbon for extra stiffness, weighs about six lbs. Once installed I drilled through the deck and the beam and bolted a pad eye in place. Then ran a shroud and turnbuckle from the pad eye to the Ballenger jockstrap plate under the mast, to tie it all together.
Strong, stiff and least intrusive were my design criteria. A straight aluminum tube is the lightest, simplest and most intrusive.February 22, 2014 at 2:35 pm #3262
I took a similar approach to Chris. Cardboard template to get angles of cabin, measured to get hole-to-hole distance between chainplates, then used a batten to plot curves between template tops and bottoms. I did not want it to follow the contour of the deck exactly…don’t like angles in wood. Used good marine grade ply and a bandsaw. No carbon or glass reinforcement…did not think it was needed with no angles. Bolted to chainplates then lashed to mast. I was planning on anchoring it down to the plate, but found that this solution seemed to work well. Mind you, Old School was relatively stiff anyways, so this was more of an insurance policy.
IF you are planning on keeping the boat in OD trim, the BOD is a good addition. If you do not care about OD, and you are going to replace the chainplate bulkheads anyways, then I would strongly suggest considering a full ring frame. With the ring, you would not need a BOD, and it will end up being stronger.February 22, 2014 at 3:09 pm #3265
While I do like the idea of the ring, I think keeping the OD of an Olson is one of the most appealing characteristics of these boats. I think I will own mine forever but I feel keeping it OD still holds the best market value, doesn’t it?February 22, 2014 at 3:21 pm #3267
I did the same thing as you Chris , cardboard then plywood , it took forever to get the roof profile done ( the starbord side was a little dif from the port ). The reson for cad is the lazer machne needs it, ….very easy to e-mail it to steel conpany. On other hand it took for ever to get all of that into a cad drawing , I had to measure up every inch across from a straight line , i think it was around 90 numbers for the roof profile. The rest is downhill !!! im still working on the bottom side profille, and lightning holes and thinking of incorporating a beer bottle opener ~ BOD with a useful tool .February 22, 2014 at 3:42 pm #3268
OD or do whatever , could be a topic post that could go on forever. i am infavor of keeping a classic the same , i don’t know how many are left ? my opinion is if you want to do big modds to go faster get a high tech different boat and dont destroy a classic .February 24, 2014 at 6:04 pm #3270
I had a similar idea starting with cad, until I realized the boat was a little off from side to side. So in the end it was a lo-tech template.
I agree that the full ring would be stronger, but at that point I would also want to glass the cockpit to the hull to make it stiffer… and where would it end…open transom…
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