May 25, 2012 at 10:07 am #1883
I’ve read enough about this modification, and wondering how to source one. I’m guessing finding a used one would probably be highly unlikely, but is fabricating one all that difficult? I saw the prices quoted from Ron Moore (I believe from his shop in Cal.), but if plans and templates are easy to locate, I might consider working on this as a relatively permanent replacement for my original rudder. Does anyone know?
RayMay 25, 2012 at 11:53 am #2813
Over the years, I’ve had two Olson 30 elliptical rudders made by Ron Moore and I was never disappointed. That said, Brian Jones of Annapolis has made several rudders recently (for friends of mine, not for me) and the owners are pleased. Here is Brian’s URL
You could compare prices.
Building a rudder is a challenging project. It will be a lot of work unless you are an experienced craftsman. Should you undertake the project, I suggest you get as much advice as possible from good sources.
Al HoltMay 25, 2012 at 12:41 pm #2814
I may have located one, but it has a fiberglass post. I definitely need stainless, so unless they are easily swapped out, I may need to keep searching. Al, do you know if that’s possible?
RayMay 25, 2012 at 1:00 pm #2815
I have the fiberglass post. Since the built in tube is ‘stock’..does it matter which rudder or post? Get new bearings. From what I’ve heard…the fiberglass post is preferred?May 25, 2012 at 1:13 pm #2816
In my experience, the metal posts are a mistake. Eventually, they get bent. Unbending them is problematical. I’ve had three original rudders and two elliptical rudders. All had fibreglass rudderposts and gave good service. In one case, a rock at Pt. Bonita drove the rudder up through the bottom of the boat. The rudderpost sprang back and the rudder worked perfectly for the trip back to the yard and an emergency haulout. Aside from the repair to the tip, there was no repair necessary to the rudder. The hull was a different matter.
As to changing the rudderpost, I don’t know for sure, but I would say it’s a bad idea. The stresses are enormous. When the rudder is made, provision is made to transfer the load to the rudderpost. I question whether you can take out the post without compromising the integrity of the part.
AlMay 25, 2012 at 3:26 pm #2817
I have heard great things about Brian Jones. He is local down here.
I believe my rudder was made by these guys and was purchased by the prior owner of my boat:
Of note the post is hollow carbon, unlike the solid fiberglass posts of other builders. Very stiff, but [as happened with mine] if there isn’t a perfect fit with the rudder head the post will wear down and become thin at the top. I had to repair and refinish mine and I filled the top of the post with silica reinforced west system. Al Holt made me a custom ruder head based on the slightly elliptical shape of the post and the unit is essentially bullet proof now. If you need a rudder head buy one from Al. This interface is vital for the longevity of your rudder.May 25, 2012 at 5:58 pm #2818
Why do you feel you need stainless? We have a solid glass post and have had no problems. We put some serious loads on it during our inter island crossings. I agree with Al that stainless is a mistake.May 25, 2012 at 11:31 pm #2819
Sorry about the late reply, guys- I’m replacing all the wood on the boat with plastic and repainting the deck and cockpit, to name just a few odd-jobs… Wow- Al, you’ve owned 5 rudders? How many boats?? Jim, the idea of the stainless post came from this: http://www.olson30.org/the-boat/tips-and-tweaks/rudders . I figured it was a good idea, but evidently, it’s not made beefy enough if people are bending them… I have a message from someone who has one made of glass, so maybe I’ll just go that way if he’s selling it for sure (he’s not sure). I would prefer whichever is stronger, but I’m thinking now that the opinion from the tips-and-tweaks post was a bit premature (it’s hard to tell when it was actually posted). Now that I read Andy’s reply at the bottom, I guess I was premature in making my own mind up!May 26, 2012 at 12:47 am #2820
I bought my first Olson 30 in 1985. It was a great ride. Three boats:
I was class president in 1989. I sailed in the Nationals when the top spots were all professionals. I can’t remember, but I think I sailed in the nationals five times and finished 5th twice. San Francisco (twice), Santa Cruz, Seattle, Tahoe,as best I remember. I was humiliated in Seattle and Santa Cruz, but I have a Tee shirt signed by George. It’s a treasure.
AlMay 26, 2012 at 10:01 am #2821
I just got a reply from Brian Jones (BC Boatworks, in Maryland); he’s wondering about CAD drawings for the templates.. Does anyone just happen to have this laying around on their hard drive that they wouldn’t mind sharing? I think this might get fairly expensive, and even before going through our “house appropriations committee” (my wife) it’ll get vetoed by me… I had a local guy do an estimate for replacing the teak, and he came back with ~$1200-1500!May 26, 2012 at 1:13 pm #2822
I called Dave Wilby, and he does not have the CAD files. As Jonathan indicated, it was built at Phil’s foils aka fastercomposites. All their work is cnc, so they would have the files. Doubt they would release them, though. I received a quote from them a year ago. It was about $2000 if they reused my post, and about $2800 with a new carbon post. Their machined bearings were $290 for the pair, compared to $50 for the pair from Pride Marine. Note…the pride bearings do need a bit of elbow grease to make fit properly.May 26, 2012 at 1:25 pm #2823
I have these specs:
hmm…can’t attach file. I’ll find another way.
I just put new Pride bearings in. I had to lightly sand the post for a snug fit. Otherwise..a great fit.May 26, 2012 at 1:32 pm #2824
specs are here:
Someone could create a CAD from the specs.May 26, 2012 at 4:38 pm #2825
12-1500 sounds high. I bought new handrails for $23ea through Amazon. The only semi tricky pieces to make are the hatch slides. We let ours go grey.May 26, 2012 at 5:53 pm #2826
I have a cad file that I drew from the given information on the site when I thought I had a lot of time to create the mold…. I believe I used AutoCAD 2011. Then I called Ron Moore! Send me an email and I will send you the file since this site doesn’t accept a dwg. file.
Ciao!May 26, 2012 at 5:57 pm #2827
Oh, yes, rudder price on the West coast is $2760 with a fiberglass post. Buzz Ballenger can CNC delrin bearings to your rudder post size if need be. Probably cheaper.May 26, 2012 at 6:06 pm #2828
May I please have a copy of your CAD file of the elliptical rudder??
I accept dwg files!
Al HoltMay 26, 2012 at 11:34 pm #2829
Hey, Lilya- I’m at firstname.lastname@example.org (for the CAD file of the elliptical rudder)
and- Thank you!
RayMay 26, 2012 at 11:37 pm #2830
Jim- I just went with PlasTeak (high-density polyethylene, I think). Way cheaper at around $250. That was pretty much a no-brainer!June 13, 2012 at 11:59 pm #2855
Off topic, but I’m having trouble starting a new topic by hitting the button. Has anyone else noticed a similar issue with the forum? I’ve emailed the webmaster, to see what the problem is…
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