Keel Bold Nut

 

Home Forums General Olson 30 Discussions Keel Bold Nut

This topic contains 15 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by Bruce Hubble Bruce Hubble 2 years, 11 months ago.

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  • #1837

    Dari
    Participant

    I was checking the boat over the other day and noticed that the nut that is around the lifting-eye bolt was loose, finger loose…my question is, how many bolts hold the keel to the hull, and what is the proper torque settings for these bolts? PLEASE DO NOT MAKE ME GO THROUGH SAILPIX!!! Please for the love of the OLSON!

    #2327

    Dari
    Participant

    Oh and a socket size would be nice too…

    #2328

    Al Holt
    Participant

    I don’t know the answer to either question, but as usual I have a sea story for you. Back in the 90s I brought Think Fast! back from the East Coast to San Francisco. A Santana 35 tried to make two Olson 15’s out of her, so I was looking for a new boat. That’s another story, but anyway, I found a boat in Salt Lake City that had been sitting in the hot desert for a couple of years and I figured, what the hell, it must be dry. Well, I brought her back to Brickyard Cove and we sailed her the remainder of the season much as she was. Since we dry-sailed, I had a good look at the joint between the lead and the stubby each time we pulled the boat. Well, there was this developing “bead” along the length of the joint. We were going dogmeat slow upwind and I began to wonder if the slows and the bead were related. At the end of the season, I took the boat to Santa Cruz or Watsonville or someplace down there to the surfer guys. They dropped the keel and found that there was a flexible caulk between the keel and the lead. The keel was moving back and forth on successive tacks and compressing the caulk. Of course, my friends took care of me and cleaned that s___ out. They made the keel symmetric, properly bedded it and tightened the keel bolts. I had the boat painted white by Kim Desenberg in Alameda. Then, on the advice of my crew, I looked up one of those guys who paints naked ladies on race cars to get an air brush of a Cheetah and Run Wild! painted on the hull, including pawprints up the transom.
    The boat turned out very fast after that. I made the serious mistake of selling her before I came back to the east coast in 1997.
    So, my only contribution is to say, “Yes”. The keel should be tightly bolted to the hull. My advice is to get help from professionals.
    Al

    #2329

    Jim Saylor
    Participant

    Al,

    I know those graphix. I chartered Run Wild this summer fro the Long Beach Nationals. Great boat! She had been on the hard for a few years in Oxnard. Put some new rod and our Kauai sails (Fast Company) and had a good time. I need more work in that light flat water.

    #2330

    Dale Swift
    Participant

    The Olson Spec on the 5/8″ bolts called out 55 in-lbs. we determined that this was too much and ultimately applied 35 in-lbs.

    This came from sailpix…

    http://www.sailpix.com/email/olson30/2010/4508.html

    Dale

    #2331

    Dale Swift
    Participant

    Also the lifting bolt is: 1″-8 Thread Size

    Dale

    #2339

    Dari
    Participant

    Thanks Dale!

    We will be racing her at Harvest Moon Regatta…I think another olson out of Dallas is coming down too…come on…get a crew and joing us!

    D

    #2340

    Dale Swift
    Participant

    I am working on joining the other Olson,if my sail-maker can get finished with my #3 I will be there, he said that it will be tight, the material is on BO should be her next week. The sail maker is also doing the racing on another boat so his schedule is tight. Some times (id not most) the problem with buy a older boat you get a older sail inventory and this boat “Zoom # 155” is no exception her inventory was lacking a lot…Currently I have a new main and a older almost finished # 1, no # 2 and a great storm jib…So that is the only thing holding me back for this years run. I will send you an e-mail, I have a couple questions for ya..

    #3748
    SWG
    SWG
    Keymaster

    This is an old thread but updating it:

    Torque on keel nuts. People often call them “keel bolts” but they are not bolts, they are nuts.

    My head hurts over this. Dale Swift’s post a few up quotes 55 in-lbs. This is wrong for sure. I looked over sailpix and there are posts but all are confusing.

    A 1-inch fastener – which is the size of the stud that the keel nut fastens to – would normally have over 200 ft-lbs of torque applied to it. I am coming up with similar values for similar sized boats. The only specs we have in either this forum or sailpix are calling for 55 ft-lbs which seems way low to me.

    I have many torque wrenches and can accurately torque the nuts to any spec needed. What is needed is the actual figure and I am skeptical it’s 55 ft-lbs.

    Thoughts?

    #3749

    Allen Dodge
    Participant

    I agree that the 55 in/lb seems very low. Although the normal torque on a 1″ nut would be in the 200 ft/lb range these nuts are tightening through a fiberglass stringer. I think at that torque you’d start to crush the stringer. Last time I did mine I used the very un-scientific tighten ’em until they feel okay method. They’re still tight several years later.

    #3750
    Bruce Hubble
    Bruce Hubble
    Participant

    I had my keel off last year. No torque wrench, just use a 1/2 drive and tighten all you have. No more. No breaker bar. Remember, it is the leverage of the threads as you tighten. They are finer thread too. You are squeezing, not bolting down a head on an engine.

    #3751
    SWG
    SWG
    Keymaster

    thanks for the input bruce. your answer is so subjective however. 1/2 drive can be 1 foot long or 18″ long. strength of the person obviously makes a huge difference. it’s possible to put over 100 ft-lbs with a normal size 1/2 inch drive ratchet handle, and 125-150 ft-lbs seems about right for the size of the hardware.

    one thing that was confusing me is that i didn’t realize until this weekend’s work session that the lifting bar stud on the keel is larger than the other studs, i thought they were all the same size but the lifting bar stud (aft most) is 1″ and all the others are 5/8″. there is a big difference in the torque used on a 1″ fastener and on a 5/8″, around 100 ft-lbs difference depending on the thread pitch and material.

    at any rate, “tighten them until they feel ok” might be the only reliable specification.

    #3752
    Bruce Hubble
    Bruce Hubble
    Participant

    I use my standard 1/2 drive from Sears/Craftsman. Long extensions and go at it. Again, we don’t want to crush the washers into the FG! I’m guessing 50-60 lbs is max! (I just did aluminum heads on an engine I’m building and they were 70lbs. They are large nuts and washers for a reason: surface area to not crush into the glass.

    On the subject of the aft nut..YES..it is larger and your ordinary BIG, EXPENSIVE socket will not fit. I found the solution: Go to the ACE Hardware or equivalent and get a wrench kit for hot water heaters that fit the nut that holds the sacrificial rods. It fits! You will need to devise a way to tighten, but that is the easy part.

    #3753
    SWG
    SWG
    Keymaster

    Inspected keel nuts last evening and they were quite loose, around 40 ft-lbs. Will be torquing them over the weekend.

    #3754
    SWG
    SWG
    Keymaster

    Some of the keel nuts were even looser than 40 ft-lbs, the front most ones were around 25 ft-lbs. Way too loose. I torqued them to 110 ft-lbs.

    #3755
    Bruce Hubble
    Bruce Hubble
    Participant

    I hope you didn’t crush anything. I just assembled an engine and with aluminum heads, the torque was 65.

    I don’t remember, were you having any issues with cracks?

    40 sounded like plenty to me.

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