June 26, 2014 at 11:36 pm #1983
Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the keelbolt diameter and pitch? I’m looking at a different (lighter) method using a cargo strap in place of most of the bar length, but the rigger (not sailboat rigger, but crane rigging company) believes this is likely metric. He had nothing in stock, but could order almost anything..
RayJune 27, 2014 at 2:13 am #3412
It is not metric. 1980’s and California and US built means US standard.
If you have the rod, you have the measurements.
From my lifting rod, the bolt is 7/8. The nut is 1.5″ Thread appears course, but threads on slow, so I don’t know.
For all: if you ever want to remove or tighten the aft large nut, you need a VERY deep socket to clear the bolt height. You can spend over $100 for one OR do what I did: Go to the hardware store and buy a hot water heater rod nut remover. $8 at ACE Hardware. It is thin wall stamped metal and does the trick. Regular socket walls at 1 1/2″ are too thick. Looks like a BIG spark plug wrench.June 27, 2014 at 3:04 am #3413
Mine’s 1″-8 thread The socket was $36.00June 27, 2014 at 9:49 am #3414
Thanks, you guys! Bruce- a “hot water heater rod nut remover”? That is a hardware store tongue twister if I’ve ever heard one!June 29, 2014 at 5:21 pm #3418
Mine is 1.5 and I had to cut the rod short to make it just above the deck. You can get a connecting thread coupling to do this too.
BTW, the strap below the deck will make the boat really wobbly when you lift it. My (boat) hung bow down when lifted with the eye.June 29, 2014 at 6:21 pm #3421
Really? I would think a strap would work fine since it pops through a narrow hole in the cabin top (same setup as a J24 after about 1980).June 30, 2014 at 2:17 am #3422
I have a 1.5 foot long piece of 1″-8 threaded rod with a coupling nut on the bottom to thread onto the aft keel bolt. On the top is an appropriate sized eye nut. Attached to the nut is some 1/2″ dyneema (overkill) line that has eye splices in the ends to attach to the hook on the hoist at our yacht club. If I put all of sails, boom, spin pole/extra life jackets up into the v-birth (there is still some stuff in the stern) the boat hangs just a bit stern down. If I put the anchor on the forward hatch and the boat hangs about level. The straps should not make a difference. I like that with the line/straps going through the deck there is a much smaller chance of damaging the deck opening where the lifting rod would go through.June 30, 2014 at 3:01 am #3424
Using a line/Strap in place of a rod will create a pivot point where it attaches at the keel instead of keeping this pivot point above deck and this will alter the balance of the boat. My rod has a cap that fits the deck whole snugly. I think if you use a similar cap to tension your strap down enough so it does not wobble bellow deck then you would be in the clear regarding the pivot point position. Am I too far off?
CheersJune 30, 2014 at 9:31 am #3425
Hey, Jean- that’s sort of what I was also thinking (narrowing the hole in the cabin top a bit more so the strap has less wiggle-room). Joe’s example above is the general idea I’d like to go with. The main reason is to carry something lighter than that 6′ rod while sailing. Thanks you guys- good ideas!June 30, 2014 at 12:55 pm #3426
I leave my rod attached to the trailer since it is unlikely I will use it to put the boat somewhere else… Then weight is not an issue.
Have a great week!June 30, 2014 at 5:37 pm #3428
I finally found the solution- 10″ long 1″ diameter galvanized eye-bolt, 1″/8 thread per inch coupler nut (also galvanized) and a 12′ long 2″ wide nylon strap (that doubles over into the “basket” configuration)- capacity 12,000 lbs and weighs maybe 3 lbs in total.June 30, 2014 at 9:03 pm #3429
I would love to pictures of this setup.
CheersJuly 1, 2014 at 11:26 pm #3430
Here we are, Jean-July 1, 2014 at 11:27 pm #3431
And above the cabin top-
By the way- that “pillow” you see under the open hatch on the foredeck is my current fix for the new hatch I installed last weekend to prevent it from opening too far and stressing (then breaking) the hinges.
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