Stanchion Bases

 

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This topic contains 7 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Bruce Hubble Bruce Hubble 7 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #1782

    Skip Danesi
    Participant

    Has anyone had any luck with stanchion bases – of the purchased and perhaps modified or not kind? I see Rig-rite manufactures them for C&C’s and am wondering if with minimal mods, they could be used. Scared the heck out of a crewmate when he reached for the safety of the stanchion during a knockdown and out it popped.

    http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Stanchions_&_Bases/Stanchion_Bases_Alu.html

    #2058

    Old School
    Participant

    No experience with those, but one of the Chesapeake boats does. Someone from down there might have input.

    Perhaps having bases would eliminate the issue of a crew breaking the hull laminate around the socket when falling on it from across the cockpit. Not that I would know anything about that… $$$$$$$

    I know some boats have drilled through the stanchions and tied them to the toerail. This would be the easiest solution to your issue.

    #2060

    John Churchill
    Participant

    I am in the midst of replacing a bent stanchion. Tried straightening it but it just zigzagged. Since I could not find an exact match (Pride’s hole pattern seems different), I just got a 1″ ss tube. The old one must have been 25 mm, new one did not fit without some clearance adjustment. I assumed the outward tilt of the stanchion along with the lifeline tension should keep them secure. Mine was sealed (once upon a time) to the deck with silicone. I suppose if coming out is a problem, they could be sealed/glued at the upper end with 5200. I like the current design: simple, clean, leak-free. Fractured laminate is probably a better outcome than a broken base and crew overboard.
    John Churchill
    #153
    Sanibel FL

    #2067

    Skip Danesi
    Participant

    I don’t intend on replacing the stanchion through the deck, rather adding a way to secure or pin the stanchion to the toerail and as a last resort, the deck.

    Skip
    #150
    Rocheste,NY

    #2068

    Old School
    Participant

    Well, in that case, I would suggest that the drill and lash method would be easiest and cheapest. Don’t know what it would do to the strength of the stanchion, but it has been done on other boats

    #2085
    Bruce Hubble
    Bruce Hubble
    Participant

    I replaced all of my aluminum stanchions with SS ones from Garhauer. Price is unbeatable…http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=44

    They fit tight on my boat…rubber mallot to insert.

    I like the 24″ height better. I also replaced the lifelines with Robline 3/16th Dyneema. Much safer than wire!

    #2102

    fitzee
    Participant

    Yet more on stanchions… Last winter I had some ugly rust stains running down my topsides which were coming from the stanchion sockets. This was after I thought a good job of addressing the problem previously. And contrary to popular belief, stainless does rust. So my fix this time was to clean out the sockets and stanchion bases. I then took a stanchion down to the local builder supply and bought a length of wood dowel which made for a tight friction fit in the stanchion base (a light hammer required). I cut them long enough to be higher than deck level when in place and set them about 1/4″ beyond the bottom of the stanchion. I then filled the recess with silicone sealant and when dry, installed them. So far this seems to be working…no rust.. and the extra bonus is that water can no longer freeze in the socket causing cracks etc.

    #2106
    Bruce Hubble
    Bruce Hubble
    Participant

    I store outside in the winter: stanchion bases get blown out with air; then add a bit of RV antifreeze and good old duct tape over the top. I have zero splits/cracks etc that can come from freezing.

    For the people with loose stanchions…have you looked inside at the sockets? I’ve seen pictures of stained socket bases on other boats.

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