May 7, 2012 at 6:44 pm #1881
Quick question about these- I’m pretty sure I need to replace at least two of mine, and do a little glass work on one of the tabbing around one of the stanchion wells, but aren’t these supposed to be straight? Some of mine have obviously taken a hit, but one looks like it may have been formed that way (the bend looks very smooth). I just want to be sure I order the right stuff from Garhauer… They also seem to be a bit rusty- not terribly so, but I’m wondering what some of you all do to fix that little problem. I’ve read this- http://www.olson30.org/groups/friends/forum/topic/stanchion-bases/ , but I couldn’t quite follow the wood dowel/silicone method that Gary was discussing… seems like you’d still end up with rust, eventually.
RayMay 8, 2012 at 12:07 am #2776
I went with the 24 inch Garhaurers. They are stainless and are holding up very well. My ‘sockets’ are tight. I prevent problems by pulling them each fall; blowing out the water with air..tape over the hole. Could add anti-freeze, but that is messy and I’m not sure if out in the weather it wouldn’t lose its effectiveness.
Are you in salt?May 8, 2012 at 3:09 am #2777
Bruce, Ray when you guys ordered from Garhauer did you have to specify anything special for the stanchions or did their standard size work? I have been thinking of replacing a couple of mine but wasn’t sure about the fit. Also do you remember the costs for them?May 8, 2012 at 11:01 am #2780
Thanks, Bruce- yes, we have the boat in Charleston, so it’s salty, but freezing usually isn’t a concern. I thought of something last night- I’ll just pull and replace them all (since mine are 31″, and Garhauer only makes them 24.5″ long), clean out the sockets and dry them well, then place a dab of 4200 just on the bottom surface of each one before setting them in place with a small film of silicone around the circumference to help keep water from penetrating again.May 8, 2012 at 12:22 pm #2781
Standard size works and the shorter ones are ‘legal’. I have to use a rubber mallet to get mine in, so I don’t have the loose issue. They have several tips on the top…I got the pointy ones thinking the jib would slide over easier; not true. Go for the fattest round top one. For the price..replace them all, you won’t be sorry. $30 each? I got the SS TT. I think the SS CT would maybe be better.May 8, 2012 at 2:18 pm #2782
Conehead it is- and yes, I still “consume mass quantities”…May 8, 2012 at 7:47 pm #2783
Bruce, When in place is the 24 1/2″ high enough for double life lines? It would seem that with the shorter heights it would be difficult to get an upper and lower line in with room to get under the lower one. Do you have any pictures of your set up? ThanksMay 8, 2012 at 8:00 pm #2784
Garhauer makes great stuff and there cust. service is wonderful. I haven’t bought there stanchions yet but I am in need. I can’t recall how many we’ve gone through. Just broke one Sunday blowing 28kts and round down crash ;(…May 8, 2012 at 8:25 pm #2785
If you do call Garhauer – ask for Mark (the son) – he will make them any lenght you want. You might mention Stricly Sail and see if you can get a discount…. Sorry Mark… ;o)May 9, 2012 at 12:38 am #2786
Garhauer’s stanchions are SS tubes. The old stanchions I had were like a cast aluminum. Mine broke off just slapping a dock post. The SS ones hitting the same dock post just flip off with a slight deflection.May 9, 2012 at 12:39 am #2787
24 1/2 is enough for two. I leave the lowers slightly loose for better hiking. Yes you can get under them, even tight.May 9, 2012 at 12:44 am #2788
pic showing lifelinesMay 9, 2012 at 10:51 am #2789
I have a new 30″ SS stantion which I would like to sell. I’m pretty sure its a Garhauer. I bought it years ago as an extra stantion and forgot to include it when I sold my boat. Make me an offer. Sorry for the marketing.
BillMay 9, 2012 at 1:29 pm #2791
This question goes back to Ray’s comment about straight or slightly bent stanchions. While two of my stanchions have been used as “oh sh*t” bars during broaches and now are bent quite a bit, the other four appear to be factory bent just above the pocket. Say about 5-10 degrees. Is a straight stanchion the original design or has it become the norm?May 10, 2012 at 10:08 am #2792
Sorry, Bill- I placed my order 2 days ago through Garhauer. Skip- I think they all should be straight, and here’s why- if they are bent (like the two center ones were, and were oriented straight up parallel with the mast) they tend to rotate outward with pressure on the lifelines (I would prefer no rotation). Also, I would think that if they were straight, they give a little more room for walking along the deck (outside the shrouds) when the boat is heeled. I’m partly guessing, but I think that’s correct. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.May 12, 2012 at 1:23 pm #2793
Guys, I’m having a little trouble adding a new post to the forum- the windows (like this one) for adding a new post do not appear, so I hope you don’t mind my redirecting the old stanchion topic to this one related to the mast.
The question(s)- since my rig has been updated to a double spreader, there are very large holes where the old spreaders used to be, and a serious amount of water finds it’s way down below. I was doing a little work inside my boat a few days ago during a moderate rain storm, and watched as water dripped down from the aft mast track as well. I’m going to call Buzz to ask how to fix those holes (my guess is to rivet a stainless plate over a matching piece of plastic to prevent galvanic corrosion), but how to you deal with the track- can you simply fill it with silicone?
RayMay 12, 2012 at 1:31 pm #2794
being a wise ass: consider an umbrella at mast top.
Otherwise..you know..I never considered the track as a source of water. Does the gooseneck stop it? I’m curious now..will look today when SW3 takes its 2012 maiden voyage.
If there is no “stop”..I’ll put a silicone ‘herseys kiss’ down low somewhere to act as a diverter.
Can’t help you with the spreader patch. Don’t know what the hole looks like. Maybe just some aluminum material with alum rivets?May 12, 2012 at 4:02 pm #2795
Ha! I was almost tempted to bring an umbrella along at Charleston’s Raceweek 2 weeks ago- we had light rain on 2 days, and thought it might raise an eyebrow or two, so I left it behind.
The holes where the original spreaders were are absolutely huge, so I’m guessing that not only does it allow water in, it may also compromise spar integrity. I’d feel better reinforcing it with something, and I have the materials to do it.. just need Buzz’s permission. I’ll just squirt a dollop of RTV in there and see how it works- I’ll bet it fixes most of the problem, and if not, I can always remove it.
Thanks, Bruce!May 16, 2012 at 1:01 pm #2800
Quick question about cockpit coamings- has anyone shortened them and wish they’d been left full length? I’m replacing mine with PlasTeak and was just wondering about it…
RayMay 16, 2012 at 1:28 pm #2801
Most people have simply taken them off. Personally, I like having them as it give my butt a place to clench on, and my crew like them for having something to grab when getting onto the rail. I cut out a small section where my main traveller and fine tune are lead to the corner so I have a better angle for the cleats.May 16, 2012 at 1:36 pm #2802
One thing about the cleats on my boat is that they are screwed just to the top of the coaming with wood screws (not through-bolted), and are not really secure. I think I’m going to just through-bolt a Harken riser and have the coamings built to be just short of the cleat. Thanks, Bruce.May 17, 2012 at 1:27 pm #2803
Ray – I cut them down to about an inch tall, through bolted them and then moved the cleat off of it. I wanted to keep them for the same reasons as Old School. Little bit of teak looks nice.May 17, 2012 at 5:51 pm #2804
I took them off, my crew made me a cake!May 17, 2012 at 6:44 pm #2805
Wow- I don’t think I’ll get that out of my crew, but they will readily complain of soggy bottoms!
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