Curt Rodgers

 

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • in reply to: Wanted: taking an O30 for a ride #3493

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    I might try to get over the Sausalito way on Saturday, so I might see you if you are out and about.

    in reply to: Paint for Toe Rails #3354

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    My painter ued the same Awlgrip paint/color that he used on the topsides. It turned out great. They blend in nicely.

    in reply to: 2014 NAs #3174

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Where are they being held this year?

    in reply to: What to do with my Olson 30? #3160

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    What about the sails? I really need a #2 and #3.

    in reply to: Longnitudinal stiffening #2965

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    We all put a lot of tension on the backstay with our 48:1’s. Has anyone had their forstay pull off the bow? I put a 1/8″ G10 backing plate under the forstay attachment just because it looked like an accident waiting to happen.

    Also, does anyone have pictures they would share of boards between the main bulkhead and the forward bulkhead? I would be interested in doing that if folks think it actually helps.

    in reply to: Parting out An Olson 30 #2573

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    I’d be interested if of couse they work. Looks like speed, wind, depth, compass. If you could give me the model # I can determine how old it is.

    in reply to: Parting out An Olson 30 #2564

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    How about the electronics…any idea if they work?

    in reply to: Parting out An Olson 30 #2531

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Where is this boat? What kind of companion way cover does it have? Also, if it had a double spreader rig, are the spreaders still available?

    in reply to: rope backstay/flicker #2486

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Thanks for the clarification. Good to know. The only thing I would worry about with a Amsteel/Dyneema back stay would be chaff at the top where the leach normally hits. I suppose you could put a cover on it up there however.

    in reply to: rope backstay/flicker #2482

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Do class rules allow for other than rod or wire standing rigging?

    in reply to: Fiberglass Rudder Shaft crack #2481

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Ya, to say the least I was pretty concerned about the crack myself. In the end I sanded about a 1/16 of the shaft and covered the top 8″ of the shaft with 2 layers of E-glass, overlapping the joints. It worked out pretty nice and my new bearings fit perfectly. In addition I shimmed the top with a slice of a Fosters beer can and now the tiller head fits very snuggly. All in all, I sure am glad I removed the rudder to check things out.

    That said, I’m still interested in an elliptical rudder if anyone has one for sale.

    in reply to: Bottom #2387

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    I’m not sure about that. The guys at Interlux were very helpful. I shot them a question online and they answered right away. I found the paint online for $49 + shipping which gets you 2 quarts (being a 2 part epoxy paint). It is mixed 1:1.

    in reply to: Bottom #2385

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    You might also want to check out Interlux (127) VC Permormance. It is a 2 part epoxy paint and is an “abative” paint. Very hard and can be wet sanded or burnished. Some of the Melges 32 guys use it here in SF.

    in reply to: Fiberglass Rudder Shaft crack #2382

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    If your boat is on a trailer, dropping the tongue down to the ground will give you enough height to remove the rudder. Just to be sure, measure the shaft plus the lenght of the rudder and make sure that total lenght is below the rudder and your good to go.

    Now back to my shaft crack issue…

    in reply to: Commercial Interests #2091

    Curt Rodgers
    Participant

    Links to businesses that offer Olson specific products would be useful.

    My two cents.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)