Piotr

 

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Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • in reply to: Crack between Keel and Hull #3718

    Piotr
    Participant

    Hi,
    I know exactly what you are going through, my theory on why it happens on all the boats is that the keel is larger than the sump (the bottom of the boat). Originally the keel was designed smaller but later changed on hull #2 to a longer chord, so every Olson has an area above the keel filled with what looks like bondo. See photos.
    I don’t think just epoxy will fix it since the boat flexes so much, on Passages I had to grind the surface down, replaced the bondo chunk with carbon fiber and added a layer of lateral fiberglass (this will keep it from cracking again I hope) all the way around.
    I hope it helps, send me a message if you need moral support etc…
    Attached are the photos of keel with out the chunk on the back, the-glassing and final finishing.
    I ended up putting an epoxy bottom on the boat afterwards, as a barrier seal.

    See the page on the blog:
    http://olson30.tumblr.com/page/10

    Cheers

    in reply to: New Owner #108 #3504

    Piotr
    Participant

    Congrats, Looks good,
    it would be a good idea to clean the keel bolts and tighten them.
    Have fun!

    in reply to: Engine Mount Question #3456

    Piotr
    Participant

    Mine didn’t work that way. I opt out of wedges and recut the bracket. Same results. I just really didn’t want to unscrew the plate.

    in reply to: Engine Mount Question #3454

    Piotr
    Participant

    Hi,
    I bought the one from garelick and have to chop it up ( cut the top arms shorter) to make it fit perfectly. Now it works great and I need every inch of it to get the engine out. I have a short shaft on purpose, so it has to go way down.
    The reason fort all this pain in the ass is when you go down wind with following seas, the wake catches on the engine if it’s not foot out of the water.
    I don’t take the engine off for sailing, so it’s important for me not to drag the damn thing behind the boat.

    If you get one I can send you the dimensions to cut it down if you want.

    “Passages”

    in reply to: Cockpit manual bilge pump #3452

    Piotr
    Participant

    Yea, I got a larger volume pump, since this will be an emergency equipment.
    it’s a Amazon Universal Manual Diaphragm Pump from Jabsco.
    I have a electric bilge pump as well. Under the mast, it has it’s own discharge at the transom – had to run a parallel pipe all the way back.

    in reply to: Cockpit manual bilge pump #3449

    Piotr
    Participant

    BTW, the offshore rules require two bilge pumps one has to discharge “not through the cockpit drains” http://olson30.tumblr.com/page/5
    How are you sailing your boat?

    in reply to: Cockpit manual bilge pump #3448

    Piotr
    Participant

    Follow up…
    I did have to glass over the old hole and re-position the pump.
    Not sure if that would work for you.

    in reply to: Cockpit manual bilge pump #3447

    Piotr
    Participant

    Fisheries supply has a good price on the pumps,
    I got a bigger size for my boat:

    in reply to: Autopilot mount #3435

    Piotr
    Participant

    OK, here it is.
    I had to make some parts, (one could buy these from Simrad for $190, but I just flat out refuse to pay that much for a piece of metal and a tube).
    The extension was the best way to go as I don’t have to have a mounting bracket.
    It seems to work fine, I’m getting a big power spike when it engages, is that normal?

    in reply to: Autopilot mount #3420

    Piotr
    Participant

    Hi Jean,
    How did the installation go? Can you post photos?
    I’m trying to figure out how to rig up the TP-22, it has very specific location, that lands it in a middle of nowhere above the seat and about 6″ below the tiller.
    Has any one tried mounting the pilot backwards on a separate tiller extension above the aft hatch?

    in reply to: Genoa/Jib tack #3419

    Piotr
    Participant

    I have a short (2ft) line attached to the sail above the tack, I use it to tighten the luff but it also keeps the sail in place.

    in reply to: Lifting bar dimensions #3418

    Piotr
    Participant

    Mine is 1.5 and I had to cut the rod short to make it just above the deck. You can get a connecting thread coupling to do this too.
    BTW, the strap below the deck will make the boat really wobbly when you lift it. My (boat) hung bow down when lifted with the eye.

    in reply to: BMW inboard #3407

    Piotr
    Participant

    Has anyone tried this idea on the Olson?
    It’s on the Melges but I have seen it retrofited to H33.

    http://www.socasailboats.com/CRO_System/body_cro_system.html

    in reply to: Fiberglass Repair #3352

    Piotr
    Participant

    Amen to all that is said above…
    I would add that the transom crack is probably the big problem, don’t get any more water in there.
    Use some un-thickened epoxy to fill the glass and then add q-cell or aerocell to it and fill/ sand etc.
    You can ger some inexpensive fillers at fiberglass hawaii, same stuff west system sales, but much cheaper.

    in reply to: Masthead plate #3332

    Piotr
    Participant

    I just went through this myself.
    I got the antenna off to the side, and replaced the light with LED, that can have wind vane screwed in on the top and got the B&G junk on a center line forward. Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Topping lift sheave box #3316

    Piotr
    Participant

    I got mine from Ballenger, 2″ diameter. They were +/- $25 a piece.

    in reply to: Bottom Paint #3313

    Piotr
    Participant

    Cool Thanks,
    I heard a lot good things about Micron 33,
    Where can one buy this mystery paint?

    in reply to: What are these? #3302

    Piotr
    Participant

    I can almost see the patent number on the top.
    Look it up…
    289356..something

    in reply to: Ideas on Non-OD Compliant PHRF mods for stiffness?? #3274

    Piotr
    Participant

    Well it would help to glass the cockpit to the hull with sidewalls, full ring chain plate bulkhead, taller stringers. I think there are few boats that had a major redoux done.
    There is one in CA with taller mast and longer keel, any one remembers the name?

    in reply to: B-O-D #3270

    Piotr
    Participant

    I had a similar idea starting with cad, until I realized the boat was a little off from side to side. So in the end it was a lo-tech template.
    I agree that the full ring would be stronger, but at that point I would also want to glass the cockpit to the hull to make it stiffer… and where would it end…open transom…

    in reply to: Non Skid Paint #3247

    Piotr
    Participant

    More photos:

    in reply to: Non Skid Paint #3246

    Piotr
    Participant

    Short answer:
    If you can afford it, take it to someone who has a agitator spray system and get it professionally spray painted.
    Long answer:
    Awlgrip is your friend. Most of your work will be surface prep so just use the best paint you can get.
    DIY is a good way to go but you have to pay close attention to all the details and not skip any steps.
    In general:
    – strip all of the all paint, really all of it, some old paints will react with AwlGrip and bubble up. If that happens you need to start over.
    – prep the deck by filling the bumps holes etc.
    – mask with professional grade vinyl tape to hold perfect edge. you can use the cheap blue stuff on top of it.
    – paint.
    This is tricky, so first let me tell you what doesn’t work. DON’T mix the grid and the paint unless you can spray it. There is just no way to get consistent results and anyone who says differently is full of crap. I did this and had to strip and repaint the deck. That cost me a lot of grief and just want to spear you the tears of frustration. DON’T use non catalyzed paint.
    The combination that worked well was roll out a lot of awlgrip, while it was wet cover the surface with nonskid material. Don’t touch for a while (depends on a catalyst you are using). Once it stops being tacky, but before it cures blow off the excess nonskid and paint another layer of awlgrip.
    Thats it.
    Important things:
    1. Buy a fuckload of the non skid material. I used glass bubbles and they are cheap ($50 for the whole boat). You have to cover the wet paint very well or it will turn out patchy. That means 60% of your nonskid will sit on the top of the paint and will be waisted. Don’t buy it from AwlGrip/Interlux etc, they up-charge for it a lot. Local paint shops will sell it to you by a pound.
    2. Use a very slow catalyst for the Awlgrip, it will give you extra time to work. BTW, you need about half a gallon of paint to do the deck on O30 that is 3layers of paint.
    3. Come up with the sprinkle/distribution system that works for you, I punched a bunch of holes in a old can and it worked great.
    4. Make sure you have a whole day to do this. It takes a long time to mask (two people 4h my boat) and even longer to paint (6h). You need to finish well before it gets dark and moisture in the air will fuckup your finish. Basically the paint needs to be curing by the time it gets dark.

    One thing I will do differently next time:
    O30 has just about continuos nonskid bow to stern. If you brake it to parts you can do a small section at a time. This will help you with consistency and you can do one a day without running out of time.

    As for Kiwigrip, its a water based acrylic (so is your house paint) vs. AwlGrip activated epoxy.
    One will last for 2 seasons the other for 10. Choice is yours!

    See the blog for details and photos:
    http://olson30.tumblr.com/page/2

    in reply to: Athwartship Stringer Replacement #3105

    Piotr
    Participant

    Hi,
    I did very similar replacement on other boats and I’m getting ready do do this on my Olson. I’m using Divinycell and unilateral fiberglass. Its easier to work with and allows you to shape the foam to the hull quickly. Tack glue a piece of sand paper to the hull and shape final touch on the stringer by sliding it back and forth. You’ll get perfect fit. Make sure you add a radii on the top edge to allow thick glass to wrap around it.
    Your original stringers were made of foam core.
    Whatever you end up using the key is to grind off all the exterior paint to get good bond between the new glass and hull. Epoxy is the easier way to go. Lay up a lot of glass on the top and side(3-5 mm) and make sure you will bond all of that to the hull. Ultimately that is what gives you strength.

    Good Luck!

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)