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Thanks for that. It seems to me that with overlapping head sails keeping the slot open by travelling up as much as possible makes sense.
A little late for your purposes but attached are a couple of pics of my install of a Raymarine X5. The controller is mounted on the cabin bulkhead. Since it appears that most failures of these tiller pilots are caused by saltwater migrating into the cylinder I covered the shaft with a shock-absorber boot sealed with rubber bushings and clamps on each end. I added a velcro loop on the mount end to keep the anchor pin secure…not a huge concern if the ram is perfectly horizontal but insurance in case. I originally had an cheap 3 way plug that was always getting wet and cutting out. I have since replaced that with a Marinco plug designed for a trolling motor and solved that problem. 3 Years and no problems so far.
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By this I mean do you keep the leach tight (sheeted hard) as you would when going for maximum point and drop down the traveler to de-power? I.E. until you reach the traveler limit at which point you would need to twist off the top.
Or would you first twist off the top and then travel down? This is assuming the main is already bladed out.
I stumbled across an article re the balsa core used in the Olson 30. PDF attached. Pretty interesting.
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My theory for using wedges is that since my mast has the dreaded hole for electrical drilled in the front of the mast, mast bend would be limited to the section above deck level. I’m not sure how this works out in practice but my thinking is that the less tension I put on the forward side of the mast in the area of that hole the better. No cracks yet and I want to keep it that way. Does this make sense to anyone else?
I picked up some wedges (shims) at Home Depot in the window and door department. They are made from a tough material…looks like tan colored nylon and are about 1″ by 4″ give or take. I lightly tapped them in all around the mast from the bottom side…don’t overdo it as you could either put a dent in your mast or put the mast out of column. Make sure to put a ss hose clamp around the bottom ends of the wedges or they will work themselves out. And then tape over the clamp. And then boot or tape the mast on the topside. I’ve used this set-up for 3 years and they are still where I put them. Good luck.
Awesome work. Thank You!
It never dawned on me that there would be no O30’s on Oahu. Hmmm. I actually get into Honolulu on the 23rd so could conceivably make the Nawiliwiliy (spelling bee anyone?)race on the 26th. I’d probably fly in that day, book a hotel and leave the next day. Please let me know if anyone needs crew. Thanks.
Probably 48:1 contributes. In my case I have 48:1 but I limit absolute max movement to 2 1/2″ (ie measured from the top block to the deck). I could probably go more but no reason as I can get enough mast bend to flatten the main out. Make sure the lowers aren’t too tight so that the mast can kick forward.
I have a single spreader rig on hull #27 with a hole in the front of the mast. No cracks. It looks like at some time a previous owner used something (a file maybe) to remove the sharp edges from the hole. I’m no expert but I’ve heard this helps to prevent stress fractures from starting.
And thanks for the correction….Hoodlum and not Hooligan. Same damn thing aren’t they??
Thanks for the search tips SWG. It looks like Tom in SF purchased her in 2002. I was told that Ballenger in SC installed a “re-manufactured” single spreader rig around 2005 so the dates jive. I don’t know if Tom ever found the self-furler he was looking for..thankfully it had a Harken foil when I bought it. As for his question on barrier coat…well it did get done (zero blisters BTW) in 2009 along with a new Bomar hatch. Cheers.
If you click on the drop down menu the dimensions are shown.
You mean like this?
I’m not so sure about that Bruce. In a review by Bob Perry in an old issue of Castoff Magazine (archived on that other Olson site) he states “The Olson 30 uses birch plywood with seven laminations imported from Finland”. Could it be they used different plys over the years? Mine is hull #27 and it sure looks like birch to me..
That may be for your boat but mine is definitely not mahogany. Very light color…may be birch ply?
Hmmm…. a good reminder about having hatch boards in and locked.
I installed the Pride bearings a couple of years ago. My post was a very tight fit and it took 2 of us working the rudder back and forth to get it home. The bearings were a real tight for the first year (subbed for a tiller-tender) but eventually loosened up and are now perfect. Next time rather than continuing to work the rudder back into place I would hold up at the first sign of binding and do a little light sanding to the post.
John, I’ve been very happy with my Tohatsu 6hp Sail Pro. It’s a 4 stroke (amazingly low fuel consumption compared with my old 4 hp 2 stroke). The shaft is 25″ which is something I really like….I don’t know if you have ever had to motor in a big following sea but I have with my short shaft 2 stroke. The sound of the motor revving whenever the prop came clear of the water (every wavecrest) made me nuts. Not that won’t happen with the long shaft but those extra 10″ do make a difference. Also comes with a high-thrust prop and alternator (haven’t found use for that yet) Weight is 55 lbs. and since I’m not racing OD it stays on the bracket anyway. Tohatsu also makes this motor for Mercury and I believe Mariner but those brands sell for a premium. Good luck on your search.
+1. My new bearings were so tight that it took 2 of us working the rudder back and forth to get the shaft back out. Ended up putting the old lower bearing back in which wasn’t so badly worn. Kept the new one up top to replace the badly worn upper. Even still there was friction from the upper for the next six months which made helming challenging…very hard to feel rudder loading when the shaft was seizing. Finally wore in though and now it’s fine. Best to get it turning free from the git go.
You are right…it rates 93.
I’m a little confused with the Q terminology. First question is what is the difference between M and MX? The Q website isn’t very clear on the difference. Also, when I download the 2011 Racing brochure I see MR prefixes for various M sails but no mention of MX. Going by the description of your main in your post, the MR 5000 seems to be the closest match but again no mention of MX (perhaps an omission?) Hope you can help me out. Thanks and congrats on your recent O30 title.
If I remember correctly, 24″ even.
Yet more on stanchions… Last winter I had some ugly rust stains running down my topsides which were coming from the stanchion sockets. This was after I thought a good job of addressing the problem previously. And contrary to popular belief, stainless does rust. So my fix this time was to clean out the sockets and stanchion bases. I then took a stanchion down to the local builder supply and bought a length of wood dowel which made for a tight friction fit in the stanchion base (a light hammer required). I cut them long enough to be higher than deck level when in place and set them about 1/4″ beyond the bottom of the stanchion. I then filled the recess with silicone sealant and when dry, installed them. So far this seems to be working…no rust.. and the extra bonus is that water can no longer freeze in the socket causing cracks etc.
+1. Great to have a site as cool as the boat it’s about.