Forum Replies Created
Does anyone know how to deal with rudder post grooves? Am I on the right track above?
Hey, one question I forgot to ask- Buzz thinks there will probably be some grooves in the rudder post from normal wear and they’ll need to be repaired. I forgot to ask, but I’m guessing I can simply sand with 60 grit and apply some West Systems epoxy thickened with one of the structural fillers (not the softer fairing filler, but the high-density 404 stuff). I’m assuming I wouldn’t need to take an angle grinder to that thing, would I?
I’ve ordered the new bearings and will get them installed maybe in a week or so. I didn’t think about the backstay– it was on maybe half-way– snug, but not for honkin’ conditions.. I’ll ck this weekend.
Just found out that Buzz has a bunch of new bearings in stock… I can google where to buy graphite powder. I asked him about sailing with the rudder post knocking around a bit, and he said there may a groove in the post that I might need to build back up with thickened epoxy, so that’s what I’ll do.
Oh- also- is it safe to sail with that amount of wiggle? It’s not bad, but I was zipping along at 7 kts this weekend and there is an interesting humm coming from down there… I’m guessing it’s rudder vibration. I can’t imagine that it’s enough to wiggle anything apart, but I’m racing this weekend from here to Savannah, GA and back (about 150 nm total).
Thanks, Bruce- where do I buy new bearings and graphite powder?
Actually, I made a “hatch pillow” for lack of a better word.. Just hacked apart an old coast guard ocean life vest, took out the foam and sewed some spinnaker cloth in the shape of a 1′ x 8″ pillow (or so), put in some grommets on the corners and bungied the thing down between the hatch opening and the mast. Works like a charm and I haven’t tripped over it yet!
I’m not clear on something, Bruce- if you shorten the backstay so that you can just reach it when standing on the cabin top, how are you going to reach it when you walk back to the stern to attach it? I’m confused a bit..
Ya know- it looks like you’ve replaced your original pump- I can see the epoxy work. Which brand is that one? Whale??
Mine doesn’t really look like that at all- it’s turned 90 degrees and laying flat against that vertical wall inside the lazarette. I don’t have a picture handy, but there is no flap for the handle orifice- it’s a stainless post that you just slide the handle on and start pumpin’. It does say “Guzzler 500″ embossed on the body of the pump, and I called the company this morning- she said the current refurb kit will still work with those older pumps. What I am doing is making sure this pump works for Bermuda 1-2; it is a requirement for the race, not that I’m likely to be really using it to bail the boat if I take on a stern wave that finds it’s way down below- that pump really works to keep the sump dry at the dock. I have another electric pump in the bilge mounted right under the cockpit floor connected to 2” tubing that I have to place out the companionway, but the only other requirement for the race is a “permanently mounted” manual pump that allows pumping from inside the boat, but allows you to run the hose out through a crack in the companionway hatch or slider. All I’m going to do for that is just zip-tie a Thirsty mate in place near the companionway.
Thank you, Zeke!July 2, 2014 at 5:55 pm in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3439
Exactly what he just told me via Facebook, too! Ok- I’m going to contact the good folks over at the Bermuda 1-2 office and ask if they’ll allow me to race sans motor. I think that’s a great idea.July 2, 2014 at 5:36 pm in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3437
Yeah, I sorta counted on the “never-never-never..” response, but I can’t imagine lashing stuff above deck in plastic containers, and modifying my boat (yet again) to accommodate an inboard tank seems like, well, another expensive mod.. I want to be safe above all else, but I’ll wait to hear back from Andy. He usually responds back fairly quickly. Thank you for the ideas so far- I’ll let you know what Andy thinks (or Adrian, if that’s unsatisfactory).
RayJuly 2, 2014 at 11:16 am in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3433
Thanks, Lilya. I would definitely open the aft lazarette hatch, and my nose is very sensitive to the smell of gas. I’ll always pause before lighting the stove (which I’ll probably use just for making coffee anyway). I wonder of they allow below storage of fuel. I’ve never seen any of the transpac boats (most recently, Adrian Johnson’s Idefix) with gas containers lashed above deck, and I know he had at least 20 gallons capacity in there somewhere..
And above the cabin top-
By the way- that “pillow” you see under the open hatch on the foredeck is my current fix for the new hatch I installed last weekend to prevent it from opening too far and stressing (then breaking) the hinges.
Here we are, Jean-
I finally found the solution- 10″ long 1″ diameter galvanized eye-bolt, 1″/8 thread per inch coupler nut (also galvanized) and a 12′ long 2″ wide nylon strap (that doubles over into the “basket” configuration)- capacity 12,000 lbs and weighs maybe 3 lbs in total.
Hey, Jean- that’s sort of what I was also thinking (narrowing the hole in the cabin top a bit more so the strap has less wiggle-room). Joe’s example above is the general idea I’d like to go with. The main reason is to carry something lighter than that 6′ rod while sailing. Thanks you guys- good ideas!
Really? I would think a strap would work fine since it pops through a narrow hole in the cabin top (same setup as a J24 after about 1980).
Thanks, you guys! Bruce- a “hot water heater rod nut remover”? That is a hardware store tongue twister if I’ve ever heard one!
Hey, Bruce- I could possibly take that measurement, since I have the tape (and have been regularly going up the mast installing all sorts of stuff lately…). I’m pretty happy with my current setup, and have not lengthened it back. There is plenty of sag, but my mast is straight as an arrow. I have a double-spreader rig, so it’s not as bendy maybe as the single, but I can readily de-power with just a touch of backstay and keep going until the backstay blocks are about 6″ apart (which is fine, I think). In my local fleet (phrf against J120’s, several different kinds of Beneteaus’s, but no other Olson’s), I can outpoint everybody in light air (<6 or 7 kts), and pass them going upwind- I've done it a bunch of times. I regularly sail short-handed, so I have little weight to put on the rail, and when the breeze goes into the medium-heavy range, they all pass me back again (even sailing ddw). Most people use a-kites around here, so I just get out-canvased. Right now, I'm not tempted to adjust anything..
Yeah, I’d never use silicone, either. I think my deck may have been built up already– the current frame sits flat. I’ll double check, but it’s as low of a profile as you can get otherwise, so whoever did it before did a great job. Here’s a a photo, which you might be able to make out what it looks like.
By the way, Bruce- what did you use for bedding material between the hatch frame and deck? Lewmar suggests silicone, but recommendations vary widely from 3M 5200 (not!), butyl tape (probably not) and Lifecaulk (which I’m leaning toward).
I wish I could– but work begs my hasty return. Doesn’t it always boil down to that? Work, work, work.. Kinda sucks, but such is life (until I can retire)! I’ve got two good friends on stand-by that I’ll fly out to help me bring the boat back home. That’s my plan.
I am doing the 2015 B1-2, but not yet signed up. I’m going to wait until maybe 6 months beforehand, then enter. I’m about as committed as you can get, however.. the way I’ve been investing in this boat- both time and money, so it’s now or never. If the weather seriously deteriorates, either before or shortly after the start, I’ll turn around. I’m giving this a 2-time mental commitment (2015 and 2017). I won’t go if the conditions are nasty before the start or will turn around after one day if needbe. I already know I tend to get quite goofy if I don’t get enough sleep, so I figure it’s the safe thing to do. I can’t give 3 weeks for the whole race, so my plan is to hang out for a couple days, rest up, then sail back to Charleston, where we currently live (South Carolina, not West Virginia!).
Jean- are you really thinking about the Bermuda 1-2? It’s this coming year (2015)- I’d love to have company!
Hey, Bruce- thank you for the offer, but I just ordered the same (but new) ocean hatch from Defender. I didn’t want to take any chances that it wouldn’t fit, so I stuck with what was already there. It’s not a whole lot more expensive (relative to all the other things I’ve added to this boat to-date!), and it’ll be here in 2 days, which is a bonus so I can sail this weekend. I will keep the orientation the same; opening forward.
Bruce- I need something near bomb-proof. I’ve looked at Bomar and just don’t think they are as robust. Why did you replace your original, and what kind is it?
You’re right, Jonathan- I got the S1-S2 backwards.
Thanks, Old School- that’s the way it is now, so I’ll probably keep it that way. Has anyone been experiencing cracks in the hinges like mine has done?