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The masts are supposed to be “no greater than 39 feet 5.25 inches”, and the step is probably a bit below waterline.
I will attempt to remember to take some pics of my backstay tonight. I believe it is around 48:1
When the conditions are strong, we just crank everything on, and don’t look up. Ever.
(original single spreader)
The font is called Renfrew.
Here is the jpg…
Old School has a 1/4 Samson Validator SKB, which is a vectran / dyneema 6300lb blend for the primary genoa. Secondary genoa / spin and 2:1 main are 3/16 SKB, 4800lb. Primary spin is 5/16 3400 lb poly…I really do not mind some give in the spin halyard. Thus far, I have not stripped them, just because I am too lazy to sky the halyards to protect the vectran.
I did switch to 5mm dux for my backstay last season. After a season and a half of use, it is showing a bit of chafe where the top batten smacks it, but otherwise not other visible wear. And yes…ferrules instead of blocks.
There is no reason why this forum can’t be a crew list….
I have always thought that placing a piece of channel over the existing stringer would work, but then do you rout a groove into the floorboard and plank to compensate for the thickness? I have seen a couple of boats that have been modified to spread the load over a couple of stringers, and they always seemed overkill, particularly when the actual load point is directly over the first stringer.
The straps are on my list for next spring.
Old School has an aluminum plate that sits on the bottom of the sump and is bolted through the stringer, acting as a compression post. It seems to work, but I have not taken the time to measure if the base is still where it is supposed to be. I believe the base is supposed to be 48″ from the bottom of the deck.
If I remember correctly, Ron Moore has a kit for rebuilding the stringer. Cut out the old one and laminate in the new. Supposed to be pretty easy, although I don’t know anyone who has done it.
How much does it flex at the tip? I would be concerned with the flex on a power reach on the edge…
If anyone else actually wants to make this happen, they have to join the Association at least a month before the Nationals so they are entitled to a vote.
This means now……
It is because the Dark Side is being overpowered by good, man!
email me the pic and I will get the avatar looking right for you.
I can easily create a suppliers page. I just need some content.
Of course, some conversations would have to take place…
I HIGHLY doubt a camcleat would work as a genoa cleat, especially if you are using 6mm line. If the spinlocks can’t do it, then cams won’t.
For the spin, lots of boats use doubled cams, although it might be tough with small line. I run 5/16 poly spin halyard, and have lost the grip a few times. Might have been due to crew error. But, whenever conditions are over 10 knots, we always lock the halyard onto a horn cleat I have mounted on the mast near the deck.
Fattening up the line should be your first priority. If it is single braid, then it is super easy. Double braid, then more difficult but definitely doable. I ran a tracer line in the core of my headsail halyards, then added another cover on top of the original cover. This has eliminated any problems with the spinlocks. (BTW…be sure you have the 0408 clutch, not the 0612)
I led mine under deck, terminated to a horn cleat. I tapped into the mast for the cleats’ mounting bolts, so it is easily removable for stepping the mast. As an aside, I did also switch to a 2:1 halyard.
Reef? What is a reef?
You can see in the attached picture that I have gone for the minimum deck hardware possible. Since this picture was taken, I have mounted a 16 winch (the original cabintop winch) just behind the spinlocks, exactly for the reason you mention above.
If you are looking to replace the stock stuff, then it is pretty straight forward. If you want to modernize it, I would suggest looking at this article that I have not migrated yet…. http://www.pnw.olson30.org/howto/deckbouy.html
Discovered that on Old School as well. We inserted a cord into the core of the line, plus mended a larger cover on. Looks like crap, but works well. This was on double braid. For the larger cover, I could not get it to bury into the original cover, so I just got some high quality heat shrink tubing, and finished it that way. I have to redo the heat shrink annually.
Well, in that case, I would suggest that the drill and lash method would be easiest and cheapest. Don’t know what it would do to the strength of the stanchion, but it has been done on other boats
I pulled that conduit out as well when I redid Old School. I removed the conduit, wires, masthead lamp and wire halyards. I figured that I removed about 10-12 pounds out of the mast, and replaced it with about three pounds max of high tech line.
No experience with those, but one of the Chesapeake boats does. Someone from down there might have input.
Perhaps having bases would eliminate the issue of a crew breaking the hull laminate around the socket when falling on it from across the cockpit. Not that I would know anything about that… $$$$$$$
I know some boats have drilled through the stanchions and tied them to the toerail. This would be the easiest solution to your issue.
Templating is a huge job. I got a copy of the “Seattle” templates, and found that my keel would have needed to be ground down significantly on one side, even into the lead. I was not prepared to do that, so I just got one side looking as good as I could, took a template off it, and faired the other to match. A bit of grinding, but the EPA did not have to be involved!
Old School runs a 155, 140, 95, 90 (or so). I can highly recommend the Ullman 140. It is a rocket between 10 and 18 knots. Chuck knows how to draw a fast sail.
Materials…I went through the whole rigamarole a couple of years ago. Spoke with a dozen sailmakers and two material producers. Came down to this…If you can afford it, go with Flex Kevlar at minimum for the #2 or #3. For the #1, the carbon strings come into their own, albeit at a premium. Pentex apparently has too much give for our ultralights.
For mains, the jury is out on the benefits of carbon or kevlar over racing dacron.
6mm…I hope you are talking about spin sheets!
I have 11mm EZFeel (fuzzy poly) for the genoa sheets
Stripped 8mm MaxBraid for heavy spin
Stripped 8mm Flightline. Love the stuff, and use it up to about 18 knots wind
8mm BZZ for the mainsheet, course and fine.
I have. It is an interesting ride on a short, steep ramp! I had a 24 foot extension, complete with a large wheel to support the tongue weight. I found that launching, while nerve-wracking, was possible. I had a heck of a time pulling the boat out of the water though. By the time the trailer is deep enough to float on, it is next to impossible to line the boat up with it.