Forum Replies Created
Leave it in! get them to agree to adjust your time by 3 seconds a mile. (yeah, I know….fat chance) Actually, you can tow them all out to the course and get a favor? Or race as is and see if it really is slower. (can you tell I have an inboard?)
oops..missed your flicker comment.
I would like a pic to see the three ferrules to see if it adapts to my cascade ok. I hate my rod backstay..ugly and doesn’t want to clear the batton if backstay is off. Have you considered a flicker? I had one for my rod backstay, but it wasn’t strong enough. If I go rope..it will come back!
Hijacking the original theme, sorry. BUT maybe I’m done with one question..how did you rig the line? SS thimbles at mast top I presume…but how about to the block at the cascade? Is this where you are using ferrules?
I’ve seen some boats put like an electrical shrink wrap over the line as a side note to prevent chafe from battens.
Dari: you are replying to my backstay question? If so..how often do you think it will need replacement? I have 3/16th for my lifelines…second season and they look great. I trust them a lot more than wire. I’m using Robline 75 Dyneema. Same stuff for backstay..hmmmm.
Thanks Jason…I reduced back down to 600 kg or so when I saw that Harken instructions said no more than 500 Kg. The battery was getting low, so maybe I was getting a false read because now I have some slack in the leewards. 1000 lbs is 450 kg I think. Something isn’t right..I’ll hope it is the battery! If not..back to Ebay it goes! May be that it is only good for wire, although it says ok with rod.
You could haul the halyard into the mast and have a retrieve line for sacrifice purposes. Anyone using line for a backstay? Size?
Totally different perspective. Now that give me more encouragement to remove the whole stringer and replace as you did. Just need something that won’t compress/rot. The IPE idea is making sense. Or a piece of alum/ss channel over the top of the wood. I always thought of wood as being a mold to shape the FG. But to support a mast compression, it is asking too much of the glass & wood only 3-4″ wide.
Wow..that is ugly. Only 1/4 inch? So that gives me a great idea how much glass is there…almost all of it! I can see it was crushing…and wet. It was plywood, right?
On a separate note..I have a couple of ‘classic’ ‘Surfline’ genoa lead blocks on ebay. Should have offered them here. Search Schaefer lead block
Want to make your boat ‘stock’? LOL
Pictures of ‘fixes’ would be nice!
It’s not bad enough to cut out. It needs cosmetics or you wouldn’t even notice. Goal is to solve it. Rules look like you can’t build across the stringer..say with an SS channel over the stringer..correct? The basic problem seems to be that all the stringers are not sharing the load. Spreading load across the one stringer would help. Then use a SS ‘plank’ to make a T or cross over the three(?) stringers. Added weight is not an issue when the mast is getting shorter…LOL
If you have blisters..they will come back. Grind/fill/fair and then put on the barrier coat. Make sure you strip off all paint first. A quick overall sanding will highlight the ‘raised’ bumps. Ton of work, but mandatory on a balsa core boat. Take advantage of the 5 years of drying.
Tropical…out of my cool freshwater knowledge. I like hard paints…get all the copper you can is my guess.
Aluminum would fold like a bent straw…don’t even think about it!!
The carbon can take it. The flex at the tip is less than the flex on sprit boats..only flexing from mid point out..so 6′.
I store outside in the winter: stanchion bases get blown out with air; then add a bit of RV antifreeze and good old duct tape over the top. I have zero splits/cracks etc that can come from freezing.
For the people with loose stanchions…have you looked inside at the sockets? I’ve seen pictures of stained socket bases on other boats.
Center point: advantages are small, but add up. Don’t have to deal with bridles..clumsy at times. Pole ‘spins’ easier during gybes. The pole lift and downhaul are directly opposed to offset each other. Carbon is super strong and very light..a one arm easy lift. D Rings don’t break.
Stability? probably the same when hooked up. When the pole is at the forestay, the end of the pole bends up and down a bit in waves..but Forte says it won’t break! Don’t forget they build the sprits for Melges 24’s and the like.
My avatar is weird. I uploaded a spin pic. It shows fine in my account, but is defective in posts.
Tack Tic…no wires.
My downhaul is at the mast base…keeps jib sheets clear that way. BUT, we use twings to supplement the downforce. Couple of years ago we went to a carbon pole and use ‘center pick’ D rings. VERY nice alternative if you have ever considered it. Forte is the only one I know of that does the center rings on carbon poles.
I’m going to find out from the previous owner!
I replaced all of my aluminum stanchions with SS ones from Garhauer. Price is unbeatable…http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=44
They fit tight on my boat…rubber mallot to insert.
I like the 24″ height better. I also replaced the lifelines with Robline 3/16th Dyneema. Much safer than wire!