Forum Replies Created
Absolutely fixable. Prep it by drilling little holes at the 2 ends of the crack. Wash the piece inside and out with clean water. Let it dry for a few days before you find a reputable TIG welder who knows he/she(!)should use 316 stainless rod. An additional 316 stainless tube in the middle of the other two is a geat idea also.
McMaster-Carr would be a easy place to get 6″ of tube. Here’s the link:
Good luck! (not that you need it…it is a minor fix!)
If you are in the SF Bay area, I can fix it for you.
Mine is sitting on a Triad 4 wheel trailer – roughly 11′ without the mast resting on the pushpit-pullpit. The trailer jack is being used so that may add a few inches…July 2, 2014 at 5:47 pm in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3438
Actually I didn’t bring the motor for the return trip to Seattle. It probably would’ve shortened my trip by 2 or 3 days if I’d had it, but the Olson is a good light air boat. But when I sailed to Australia I just left the main tank in the cockpit and lashed a jerry can to the stern. The outboard fared ok, but I had to lash very tightly in all directions so it wouldn’t wallow around too much.July 2, 2014 at 4:37 pm in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3436
Just sent a note to Adrian.July 2, 2014 at 5:28 am in reply to: Carrying large quantities of volatile liquids safely #3432
Defintiely a vent in the back and the these gas containers seems to work:
Can you have someone roll a piece of 5052 aluminum and rivet the piece over it?
Mine’s 1″-8 thread The socket was $36.00
OK, I have to take into condsideration the time at which the bearings are made since it is pretty warm in my shop.
Thank you Bruce,
It’s the machine shop thing. I am going to experiment and then post the results. I am thinking that .002″ clearance may do the trick clearance around the shaft and the general rule of thumb when press fitting – .001″ over for the OD. The thermal coefficients are at opposite ends. Meanwhile I will be sailing out of 57 degree water to ~78 degree water…. Of course, two weeks of sailing to Kauai 24/7 will slowly ream the bearings for me
The PVC couplings that make up the rudder tube seats are quite constant (I’m surprised). Hmmm. Any thoughts?
Anyone actually have a tolerance for the rudder bearings (ID to rudder shaft)? I am about to make mine and was wondering if anyone has measured them and compared them to their rudder post.
Thanks in advance.
Awlcraft has a bulletin on line that is out of date for painting aluminum masts since many of the chemicals for preparing the mast are not available in the US. They have replaced aluminum prep work with AwlGrip Wash Primer CF D6600 (yellow base) and the converter D3300 ratio 1:1.
The cheapest place to buy this is the PBS boat store but beware – they pack their boxes poorly. When I comlained (I actually sent a professional note suggesting they package the paints securely in the box since mine leaked) they blocked me from their website!)…
I will be redoing my toe rails and mast with this system. But hey Bruce, you are ahead of me with your boat… so tell me how it comes out!
When were they made? How much use?
When were they made? How much use?
Contact info for your specific area
Rails above the bunk are for ditty bags. I found mesh bags that were 30″ long at West Marine that I sewed a boltrope tape to. Now I have 4 nice mesh bags that slip into the grove and hold all of junk that is normally spilling on to the sole.
3m Premium filler or West System Eposxy + 406 colloidal silica – fill the holes – redrill – can you take on of the rivets out to see how long it is?
Your horseshoe, hmmm… should be hanging 180 degrees the otherway- promotes bad luck the way it is hung… Could it be for a port-o-pottie? As for the Red Knob….is that a fine mesh filter on the end? Where is it located?February 25, 2014 at 9:44 pm in reply to: Ideas on Non-OD Compliant PHRF mods for stiffness?? #3280
I am strapping a cork pfd to that post for this summer’s journey to Nawiliwili. As for the outboard, mine’s in the livingroom next to the liferaft end table. Actually I raced with someone who did that with his outboard – so I assumed that was what that post was for.February 25, 2014 at 3:26 am in reply to: Ideas on Non-OD Compliant PHRF mods for stiffness?? #3276
Bruce, my boat has a 2×4 that is glassed in that is about a foot back from the companion way wall that supports the cockpit sole. I suspect that the way it is arranged (not centered) it is there also to attach the outboard so as to not have it jump around.
I am making a carbon fiber one that sits in a cassette and uses the outboard bracket. I am using unidirectional CF (many layers along the spine(and wrapping it with CF and and outside layer of FG for impact resistance. It is roughly 4′ long (from the bottom of the cassette) and about 13″ wide. I suspect it will be a bare to use but at the point, I will only be crusing to get somewhere (not racing)(!)
I’ll post a few pictures when I am done. Also, I drew up the shape and templates in CAD and can send it on to anyone that may be interested.
Actually it will end up looking a bit like a FARRIER F-32 rudder. I figured if it works for a cat, it should almost work for an Olson… Here’s the site:
Spread LanoCote on them ~ that will keep the air and moisture out. It is available at most chandleries. Beware, it is very sticky and dogs love it – which is one way of getting it off of yourself or anything you didn’t want it to be on. If you heat it up a bit you can spread it on with a brush. Careful though, it has a low melting point.
OK, I have attempted to post a new topic: Rear hatch dimensions and it isn’t showing up.
SO, this topic is somewhat connected:
My dillemma is that I need the cutout dimensions for the rear hatch. A Lewmar size 54 hatch is 15-7/16″ x 19-15/16″ A size 60 is 19-15/16 x 19-15/16″. If anyone happens to have a tape measure handy next time you are on your boat, please please please…
Also, I need the dimension that is from the cutout to the rear of the boat on the center line.
I am attempting to restore hull #243 after someone extended the cockpit to the transom.
Jim – How is the cork count? I’ll be there next summer! You only need 380…
37.5″ I have one leaning against my fireplace… yes, the house is an O30 museum.
I picked up a SS plate from Buzz. He recommends not using the BOD but something with a turnbuckle that goes from the keel to the deck. His SS plate has 4 tangs on it. 2 for the jockstraps and 2 front and aft of the mast. I haven’t done this yet but will measure what ever I can when I do.
I Have a brand new spreader that I bought from Buzz It is 36.25″ and has two groves.
I also have a used one (2 groves) that is roughly 33.25 (longest dimension)
Last, I have a set that are 33.250… all for sale. The new one cost $230…ugh make me an offer on what you need…..
Jim – I made it home, had coffee this morning on the Olson and then played the new tenor uke much to the dismay of the neighborhood dogs… Thank you for taking me out on a real boat when I was in Kauai! Good luck in the channel. Wish I could be there to work the pointy end of the boat with my kevlar kneepads!!!!
Makes it a little difficult to slice up the cheese & veggies for h’orderves, doesn’t it?
I am doing offshore races thus a masthead light is required.
I just weighed the old light: 14 oz. while the Orca is 10.2 oz. Although there was a plastic bag involved with the old parts…
I have an old one that can be used as parts. If you want it is yours. Just send me your address.
FYI I bought a strobe/tricolor from Orcagreen.com. It is a very sturdy unit and uses one switch for anchor, strobe or tricolor. The switch can use existing 2 wire or a 3 wire configuration.
99 Sf Bay
The water color is from spilled coffee. It is a long race.