Zeke Wolfskehl

 

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  • in reply to: #218 in refit #3840

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    My other stringers are foam. I placed a solid block under the mast step just aft of the main stringer. The block is about 4″ athwart ship and 5″ fore and aft and spans from the bottom of the sump to the underside of the mast step, about 6 or 7″. To ensure a solid support I buttered up the top of the support with an epoxy paste before landing the mast step. The grain is vertical. I had to notch the bottom to span a keel bolt.

    in reply to: Eastern CT Sailing Assoc PHRF #3772

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    Thanks Jason, exactly the type of info I’m looking for. More comparisons like yours will help convince the committee that there are no competitive advantages between a stock boat and a boat with BOD and jockstraps.

    Is there anyone that has knowledge of O-30 regatta results and the hull condition: original build or BOD/Jockstrap?

    in reply to: Eastern CT Sailing Assoc PHRF #3766

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    Thanks for the input. I am trying to help the committee come to a logical decision.

    Is there any data that would indicate that stiffened O-30’s have done better than “as built” in the national and or regional one design regattas?

    I have attached an engineers analysis that our PHRF committee is using. I would appreciate any comments that I can pass on.

    in reply to: Deck thickness #3726

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    1/2″ balsa core plus several layers of glass on each side, approx 3/4″ total thickness

    in reply to: Forestay Sag #3465

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    Head stay 37′ 6-7/8″ with center halyard two-blocked to centerline stem head stay pin
    Stemhole to top of turnbuckle 13-1/2″
    Also have about 6″ of mast rake measured about 6″ above the gooseneck
    Trying to figure out how to get the boat to point.

    in reply to: Cockpit manual bilge pump #3445

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    ’tis a guzzler 500 with a vertical handle and a thru deck mounting kit.
    http://www.thebosworthco.com/instructions/installing_guzzler_hand_pumps.pdf

    in reply to: Deck hatch orientation #3375

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    See the attached photos. I used a Lewmar Medium profile hatch with the hinges mounted forward. Mounted it on a 1/2″ thick PVC shim. Painted the shim the same color as the deck (Awl Grip Whisper Gray. As you can see the shim disappears.

    in reply to: Fore Hatch #3331

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    Used 1/2″ thick pvc sheet for the shim with a Lewmar medium profile size 60 fore hatch. Couple of pictures attached. The Lewmar fit right into the existing hole and opens to lie on the fore deck.

    in reply to: Topping lift sheave box #3305

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    I have both the old and the new topping lift block in my hand. It is the Harken 106. But I use the center halyard for the topper, the stbd wing for the jib and the port wing for the spin.

    in reply to: Ideas on Non-OD Compliant PHRF mods for stiffness?? #3279

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    I also have the 2 x 4. Figured it was to stabilize the cockpit. I have a removable 2 x 8 athwartship between the fore and aft bulkheads, far enough aft of the mast to fit the head of the outboard. Nice and low, right over the keel.

    in reply to: Non Skid Paint #3249

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    As soon as it warms up a bit here in Connecticut I am going to use Awlgrip thickened to a paste consistency with West 406 colloidal silica. Trowel it on then roll with a 1/4″ nap foam roller to the desired surface. Very controllable. Tried it on the lazerette hatch and it came out great.

    in reply to: rope backstay/flicker #3116

    Zeke Wolfskehl
    Participant

    Just weighed my rod back stay, just the rod, not any of the block and tackle, about 32’long: 2.6lbs

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)