Zeke Wolfskehl
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My other stringers are foam. I placed a solid block under the mast step just aft of the main stringer. The block is about 4″ athwart ship and 5″ fore and aft and spans from the bottom of the sump to the underside of the mast step, about 6 or 7″. To ensure a solid support I buttered up the top of the support with an epoxy paste before landing the mast step. The grain is vertical. I had to notch the bottom to span a keel bolt.
Thanks Jason, exactly the type of info I’m looking for. More comparisons like yours will help convince the committee that there are no competitive advantages between a stock boat and a boat with BOD and jockstraps.
Is there anyone that has knowledge of O-30 regatta results and the hull condition: original build or BOD/Jockstrap?
Thanks for the input. I am trying to help the committee come to a logical decision.
Is there any data that would indicate that stiffened O-30’s have done better than “as built” in the national and or regional one design regattas?
I have attached an engineers analysis that our PHRF committee is using. I would appreciate any comments that I can pass on.
1/2″ balsa core plus several layers of glass on each side, approx 3/4″ total thickness
Head stay 37′ 6-7/8″ with center halyard two-blocked to centerline stem head stay pin
Stemhole to top of turnbuckle 13-1/2″
Also have about 6″ of mast rake measured about 6″ above the gooseneck
Trying to figure out how to get the boat to point.’tis a guzzler 500 with a vertical handle and a thru deck mounting kit.
http://www.thebosworthco.com/instructions/installing_guzzler_hand_pumps.pdfSee the attached photos. I used a Lewmar Medium profile hatch with the hinges mounted forward. Mounted it on a 1/2″ thick PVC shim. Painted the shim the same color as the deck (Awl Grip Whisper Gray. As you can see the shim disappears.
Used 1/2″ thick pvc sheet for the shim with a Lewmar medium profile size 60 fore hatch. Couple of pictures attached. The Lewmar fit right into the existing hole and opens to lie on the fore deck.
I have both the old and the new topping lift block in my hand. It is the Harken 106. But I use the center halyard for the topper, the stbd wing for the jib and the port wing for the spin.
I also have the 2 x 4. Figured it was to stabilize the cockpit. I have a removable 2 x 8 athwartship between the fore and aft bulkheads, far enough aft of the mast to fit the head of the outboard. Nice and low, right over the keel.
As soon as it warms up a bit here in Connecticut I am going to use Awlgrip thickened to a paste consistency with West 406 colloidal silica. Trowel it on then roll with a 1/4″ nap foam roller to the desired surface. Very controllable. Tried it on the lazerette hatch and it came out great.
Just weighed my rod back stay, just the rod, not any of the block and tackle, about 32’long: 2.6lbs
