Rigging plan?
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This topic contains 6 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Jason Adamson 15 years ago.
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April 15, 2011 at 5:49 pm #1786
I know these boats are old and have had many changes as people love to change and tweak things, but I am just starting out with a boat that has had most of the running rigging and controls unrigged. Is there a “standard rigging plan” from the factory or something that would at least give me a starting point to work from. There is a guy in my local club that crewed on one for a few years who might help, but Iwould prefer not to approach him completely cold. Thanks.
John Churchill
#153
Sanibel FLApril 15, 2011 at 11:30 pm #2070If you are looking to replace the stock stuff, then it is pretty straight forward. If you want to modernize it, I would suggest looking at this article that I have not migrated yet…. http://www.pnw.olson30.org/howto/deckbouy.html
May 2, 2011 at 3:49 am #2079I’m looking to install camcleats on the mast for the spin and genoa halyards. Anything I should know before I put them in?
Will standard camcleats hold the new 6mm lines, or do I need to look at something else? My Spinlocks won’t hold the line at the moment and I need to increase the diameter of the halyard if I don’t install the new cleats.
May 2, 2011 at 12:29 pm #2080I HIGHLY doubt a camcleat would work as a genoa cleat, especially if you are using 6mm line. If the spinlocks can’t do it, then cams won’t.
For the spin, lots of boats use doubled cams, although it might be tough with small line. I run 5/16 poly spin halyard, and have lost the grip a few times. Might have been due to crew error. But, whenever conditions are over 10 knots, we always lock the halyard onto a horn cleat I have mounted on the mast near the deck.
Fattening up the line should be your first priority. If it is single braid, then it is super easy. Double braid, then more difficult but definitely doable. I ran a tracer line in the core of my headsail halyards, then added another cover on top of the original cover. This has eliminated any problems with the spinlocks. (BTW…be sure you have the 0408 clutch, not the 0612)
May 10, 2011 at 4:02 pm #2082I agree with Old School. Cam cleats are not strong enough for a genoa halyard. We use halyard stoppers on the deck for genoa and main halyards, indeed, we use “oversized” ones not ordinarily used on 30-footers. We use a pair of cam cleats on the mast for the spinnaker. Works pretty well. Years ago, I used a single cam cleat on the mast for the kite, but in a breeze it would occasionally let go. Yikes!
AlAugust 30, 2011 at 3:18 am #2307We use cam cleats (single) for our spin halyards on the mast. The key is placing a good size ‘bullseye’ fairlead real close to the cam..BELOW it; maybe 2 inches. To let the halyard run, just place the line to the side of the cleat. It has never let go in 4 years (knock on wood).
We use a spinlock triple for the Asail tack,genoa (& topping lift) with a cam cleat backing the gen. Security and easy controlled releases. We did have the gen slip with the spinlock with 6mm. The cam is the easier fix and it was already there.
Do not use D1 Lewmars..ever! The handles break and are not replaceable. Get the D2 model. These WILL hold the small line. The D1 did…but the new Lewmar is a POS without a handle. Luckily the retailer took it back and gave full credit toward the spinlock… Rigging Only is a great place! (Jeff is the best)
August 30, 2011 at 6:51 pm #2312I use spinlock XAS’s all around, one on each side of the mast for the spin halyards, one on each side of the companionway for the main and genoa. I use a cam cleat on the mast for the topping lift and a cam cleat on the back of the cabin top for the foreguy. Pretty simple, easy to use and has not been an issue for 4 yrs. If it is windy or we crank on the genoa then we leave it on the cabin top winch for added backup.
As a side note, careful cranking on the genoa halyard w/o inspecting the length of the luff. We ground the shackle into the sheeve because the luff had a loop that was slightly too long. Lesson learned.
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