List of rigging
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I need to replace ALL the lines, sheets, halliards, ” ROPES ” on an Olson 30 that I am trying to bring back to life. Hull # 101. As far as I know the boat is original. Is there a chart that will give me diameters, lengths, colors and types of ” rope ” to get. Also who is the best supplier as far as quality and price. ANY info would be of great help. The boat is back in the water after new bottom paint and 3 days of elbow grease on the hull and deck, But I don’t trust the condition of the lines.
You can always contact Dave at Pride Marine, an Olson 30 sailor at http://www.pridemarine.com/ or layline, http://www.layline.com , they’ll have most of the lengths and advice on what folks are using.
Your old lines are probably fine strength wise. You’d be amazed how bad a line has to be for the strength to e greatly compromised. Most of the strength is in the core and most of the ugliness is in the jacket.
Bill
From Mauri Pro:
Main Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) V-100
Jib Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) V-100
Spinnaker Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) Endura Braid
Mainsheet= 9mm Salsa
Jib Sheet= 3/8″ (10mm) SSC SK75
Spinnaker Sheet (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) Flight LineI would agree with all of these. I went 10mm Endura Braid for spinnaker sheets and stripped off about 1/2 of the cover. Very light, good handling, waterproof and strong. Spinnaker halyards could be VPC or even StaSet X. You don’t worry about stretch with those.
Milwaukee Rigging on Ebay has been good for Endura Braid and Dyneema content ropes. I’ve bought 66′ ‘ends’ for little money.
Rigging Only is priced good all the time, better on parts/blocks. Mauri Pro can be good as well.
Lengths:
Main: 65 plus length to cleat
Jib: 75 plus length to cleat
Spinnaker: 75 plus length to cleat
Gen Sheets: 66 ft. Less if you don’t go with longer tails.
Main Sheet: depends on your blocks. My last replace was 66 ft. (Harken double/double/single)You can always shorten after installation..but too short = expensive dock lines
Lines break and can only really be expected to have a 4 year active lifespan, tops. I would also recommend having at least one halyard you are willing to bet your life on as you will have to go up the rig. For me this means at least one new halyard per year. How you rig depends largely on how you plan on sailing? However, I don’t think that you can go wrong getting good, but not ridiculous stuff. As far as tapering…. People love to do it and shops love to push it… BUT… IMHO… It is a total waste of money for anything but top level racing. It costs more and SIGNIFICANTLY shortens line life, with only marginal payoff in highly competitive OD racing. Totally useless for PHRF. My rigging shop is Annapolis Performance Sailing [apsltd.com]. Top work and realistic real world advice. I use:
-V-100 by New England for main and jib halyard
-MaxiBraid Plus by Yale for 2 spin halyards [anything more expensive for this application is a waste IMO including endura braid]
-MLX by Samson for heavy spin sheets with Tylaskas
-small diameter dynema cored line for the light sheets for .5oz chute [forget make], no shackles
-Toping lift is amsteel
I forget what I did the jib sheets in.Tapering is, imho, a worthwhile “investment” for light spin sheets. Other than them, tapering is a luxury, albeit one that I use. I do all my own rigging, and tapering is quite easy.
Tylaska’s??? On an Olson???? Now that is overkill. I only have one shackle on running rigging on my boat…on the spin halyard. Genoa halyards are mundlized versions of soft shackles. All sheets are tied.
Here is my current lineup:
Primary genoa halyard – 8mm endura braid stripped (from Milwaukee rigging, as Bruce said)
Secondary genoa – 6mm samson sk8 (from roscoef on ebay…doesn’t carry much tech stuff now)
Spin halyard – cheap 8mm double poly. I actually like a touch of stretch in my spin halyards. Maybe I am nutz though.Topper – 6mm double poly. Will be stripped 4mm samson sk8 when I get around to leading it, just because I have it (old secondary genoa halyard) and it will be lighter than the poly.
Foreguy – scrap of old 8mm poly I had laying around. My sweet bridles have long spectra leaders, so the poly is actually only about 3-5 feet from cleat to leader.Genoa sheets – 10mm EZ-Feel from Pride Marine, which is a spun poly sheet. Very easy on the hands.
Primary spin sheets – 6mm flight line. LOVE this stuff. from jimyoungsailing.com, but they are out of stock now.
Heavy spin sheets – 8mm maxbraid. Seconds from hall spars…made to wrong length for another client. Only used them once, because the flight line is sweet.Main sheet – 8mm Bzz. Salsa is suggested by most sites, but I honestly can not see its advantage in high ratio systems. Particularly when it is double the price.
The lengths that Bruces listed sound right. My spin sheets are significantly shorter than 75 feet, though, but we always launch and douse from the forward hatch. They are probably more like 60 feet. But, as Bruce stated, it is very hard making a line longer.
Ha Tylaskas may be overkill, but are very nice. I use the smallest ones on my spin halyards and 10+ kt spin sheets. [the MLX sheets]. THOUGH, I didn’t buy them. They were with the boat when I got her. I probably wouldn’t invest in them from from start. I do think there is some gain from having a swiveling shackle when doing lots of sets and douses. They also come in handy when singlehanding for easily blowing the guy with a “spike” and dousing alone. I have employed this a few times and find it quite useful.
Agreed that tapering would be useful with spin sheets. If you primarily used a single set of sheets.
Just out of curiosity- what are you guys using for control lines like boom vang, traveler and backstay (type of line and diameter)?
(soft) Vang – 4mm (maybe 5) robline dinghy control
traveller – 8mm double poly
backstay – dux/spectra of varying diameters depending on how deep in the cascade it is. Final tune is 1/4 double polyThank you!
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