Non Skid Paint
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Hi all,
any suggestions on how to renew my non Skid?Anybody ever used KiwiGrip paint?
Cheers
Jean
I’ll be doing my boat in a month or so. I’m interested in responses! I bought Awlgrip Grit, but I could be convinced to change.
Lots of useful advice on Sailing Anarchy’s Fix It Anarchy sub-forum. Search for non-skid and nonskid.
Short answer:
If you can afford it, take it to someone who has a agitator spray system and get it professionally spray painted.
Long answer:
Awlgrip is your friend. Most of your work will be surface prep so just use the best paint you can get.
DIY is a good way to go but you have to pay close attention to all the details and not skip any steps.
In general:
– strip all of the all paint, really all of it, some old paints will react with AwlGrip and bubble up. If that happens you need to start over.
– prep the deck by filling the bumps holes etc.
– mask with professional grade vinyl tape to hold perfect edge. you can use the cheap blue stuff on top of it.
– paint.
This is tricky, so first let me tell you what doesn’t work. DON’T mix the grid and the paint unless you can spray it. There is just no way to get consistent results and anyone who says differently is full of crap. I did this and had to strip and repaint the deck. That cost me a lot of grief and just want to spear you the tears of frustration. DON’T use non catalyzed paint.
The combination that worked well was roll out a lot of awlgrip, while it was wet cover the surface with nonskid material. Don’t touch for a while (depends on a catalyst you are using). Once it stops being tacky, but before it cures blow off the excess nonskid and paint another layer of awlgrip.
Thats it.
Important things:
1. Buy a fuckload of the non skid material. I used glass bubbles and they are cheap ($50 for the whole boat). You have to cover the wet paint very well or it will turn out patchy. That means 60% of your nonskid will sit on the top of the paint and will be waisted. Don’t buy it from AwlGrip/Interlux etc, they up-charge for it a lot. Local paint shops will sell it to you by a pound.
2. Use a very slow catalyst for the Awlgrip, it will give you extra time to work. BTW, you need about half a gallon of paint to do the deck on O30 that is 3layers of paint.
3. Come up with the sprinkle/distribution system that works for you, I punched a bunch of holes in a old can and it worked great.
4. Make sure you have a whole day to do this. It takes a long time to mask (two people 4h my boat) and even longer to paint (6h). You need to finish well before it gets dark and moisture in the air will fuckup your finish. Basically the paint needs to be curing by the time it gets dark.One thing I will do differently next time:
O30 has just about continuos nonskid bow to stern. If you brake it to parts you can do a small section at a time. This will help you with consistency and you can do one a day without running out of time.As for Kiwigrip, its a water based acrylic (so is your house paint) vs. AwlGrip activated epoxy.
One will last for 2 seasons the other for 10. Choice is yours!See the blog for details and photos:
http://olson30.tumblr.com/page/2
More photos:
On Fast Company we used Kiwi grip. Quick easy looks great (my Crew Like it) easy to touch up, No glass & cool below decks.
As soon as it warms up a bit here in Connecticut I am going to use Awlgrip thickened to a paste consistency with West 406 colloidal silica. Trowel it on then roll with a 1/4″ nap foam roller to the desired surface. Very controllable. Tried it on the lazerette hatch and it came out great.
The most affordable way is the American version of Kiwi Grip. I used TreadPlex by Sherwin Williams. About 35.00 per gallon. The spec sheet reads verbatim to KiwiGrip. Use the textured roller. The longer you roll the higher the peaks and coarseness. It’s that simple.
I really like Piotr´s result. But I think I like the simplicity of KiwiGrip.
I will probably do a KiwiGrip try on my Y-Flyer first and see what I think before committing to one for the Olson
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