Rig tuning
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I went to Ballenger too. Buzz is great and knows the boat well.
I guess that wouldn’t be a bad idea… There’s no way I’ll still be sailing this boat 20 years from now! I can’t remember if it is Ballenger, but I think it is. I’ll check. Thanks, Bruce.
OK gang some photo’s of our Backstay system. (port side looking aft)
0300 shows 5×1 (yellow Apex braid) exits through cockpit side just aft of traveler. Upper tang is 3×1 kevlar. Both of these anchor to underside of main jib turning block. 301 is closer image. 302 shows 6×1 to 3×1 to standup block to check block through deck. (see old transom holes from old tangs/straps). 309 shows backstay split through deck. (very clean) 308 shows split block.add images.
Make sense???
Wow, Jim- that looks pretty schnazzy. I think I remember reading on this forum somewhere of someone burying all the backstay blocks below deck, which we may do somewhere down the line. I think our current configuration will work for a while. I’m going to figure out the standing rigging first, then port-a-potty next, maybe deck paint after that… All I need is a little spare time! One question about your setup; how are those blocks attached to the transom? I’m guessing there’s a sizable stainless washer on the outside for each one, maybe?
Yes they have good washers on the outside, thought the main force on the first lower pair is sheer. I forgot to show a picture of the outside of the cockpit. The lines are just aft of the traveler control lines w/ small cam cleats.
Ok- spoke with Randy at Charleston Yachting just now, and he can’t remember which spar I have.. and while he remembers looking at the shrouds and stays, he can’t remember exactly what condition they were in (although he said he could sell me new stuff!). I’m wondering since there’s not really much in the way of one-design around here, is there any point to sticking with rod rigging? He said it was more expensive, produces less windage, but without knowing more exact details, it would be kinda hard to estimate what the different costs would be. I’d have to drop the mast and bring everything in to him to work up an estimate like that, so it’s got me wondering if Buzz at Ballenger spars would be much cheaper. I’m sure both places would produce equivalent quality, so I’d prefer to stay local, if possible. Here are a few photos if anyone can tell which brand of mast and boom I have, I’d appreciate it– there are no markings whatsoever anywhere.
Ray
Ok- I’m thinking our work computers are having issues allowing me to attach photos. I’ll try in a separate post.
Well, it’s not working- envision (if you will), a tall vertical metal black thing with 4 horizontal bars and metal rod holding it all up, then one shorter black stick sticking sorta aftward perpendicular to the vertical.. computers- can’t live with ’em, can’t shoot ’em (at least not at work)! I’ll do this when I get home tonight.
Ray
Hi,
If you happen to have a Ballenger rig, he will be able to make anything you need without your having to send measurements since he has all of that information. I visited him a few weeks ago, realized that my rig was by him (brought photos) and thus, it was easy to figure out what was needed. The -4 Nitronic 50 rod runs anywhere from $3.50 to $4.00 a foot depending on which quote you get… I believe the entire rig requires around 205-210′ dependin where your caprshouds are.Man, that’s nothing near what I thought they’d run. I thought for sure they’d be somewhere in the $2,000-$2,500 range. Is that for sure? I can handle $800 easily. The 205-210′ figure sounds like that may include the two stays, is that true?
Hi Jim,
I was wondering what kind of thru fittings you used at the transom for the backstay? I have been thinking about something similar to what you have but of course being on the Pacific for 2 weeks and having holes that could possibly let water into the pipe berth areas is or could be irritating. Also, how did the island perform in that storm a month ago?
Cheers,
LilyaThat is only for the rod rigging materials . You will need stemballs, t-tangs, and possibly turnbuckels, etc. Thus,you will probably be adding another $800 – $1000 (materials, not labor).
Also, if you reuse your Tuffluff(1205-36)head foil you will end up paying for labor for something you could install while watching TV. Just takes a little manual dexterity and a few explatives. FYI I will be selling one (in good shape)in a few weeks once I get it off the forestay. I went with a Harken Carbo foil to shave weight. Oh, somehow, I believe you have a double spreader rig? The 200+’ are for a single spreader. Altough I blieve the doubles still have only 3 shrouds?Ray,
Prob. close to 3k when all said and done.lilya,
I have simple Harken flush mounts. Harken # 604740 or 604741
How are things progressing? Keep me posted.
We got plenty of water but we haven’t melted or washed away yet.Looking forward to seeing you soon.
PS: still looking for a boat to do Nationals…
Ray, If you have a black anodized rig..it is most likely a Ballenger.
If you contact him, he will need to know if any modifications have been made. I believe all original boats were single spreader and the cap shrouds did not terminate at the top of the mast.
MANY masts have been modified. Some purchased a ‘true’ double spreader rig. Some modified the single spreader rigs with a kit to make them double. Some raised the cap shrouds higher on the mast.
My particular boat has a true Ballenger double spreader rig. It has a single upper shroud and a lower a shroud that terminates below the lower spreader. These are both rod. Then there is the intermediate that is wire and terminates below the upper spreader via the lower spreader route first. They all go to a chain plate with two holes. The intermediate shares the inboard hole with the lower shroud. I share this as an example of what’s out there for different rigs. It is NOT one design for masts. There are rules, but there are several combinations that can result.
With your notes..call Ballenger. You won’t be disappointed with the help!
Question to others..is my forestay/turnbuckle setup like yours? Note the cast piece is not on Ray’s boat.
Bruce – #155 has the same forstay/turnbuckle as in your 011.jpg but does not have the same setup as pic 0021.jpg, it connect directly to the plate forward of the tack hooks….
Jim- I like your solor panel, maybe you can give some information on it…I been look for simular design…Thanks
Zoom
#155
DaleDale, Thanks for the reply. This came as is when I bought the boat used. Tune wise, I still have a lot of threads on the turnbuckle, so I feel it is a needed piece. I’m guessing it was added to give additional slack in the forestay for light air and downwind. I usually tune to have 4 to 6″ of deflection of the forestay when the backstay is just slack and yet have the mast still straight up. This year may be a new tune because I no longer have a soft mast step frame. I’m really hoping for a tighter forestay this year when the backstay is applied.
Sorry Ray for hijacking your thread!
BTW Gang: I’ve just added 3″ of lead to the bottom of my keel to raise my stability index for ORR. Inboard sistership assigned stability to me was 100.8 and I needed 103. 3″ adds 80 lbs for the record. I’m having an incline test done around May 17th and I will post a topic when I get results.
No problem, Bruce- I’m still learning how this boat is set up. As long as you guys are still talking about rig tuning, I’m all ears.
Ray – “Still Learning”, yes me too. I have my boat in the water for 1 year after a total re-furb and I am also still learning. I’m not sure if you other Olsons around you that you can sail with but this will be a big help in your tuning, if not then make the rig straight and follow the tolerances that others have proven to work. I am at a dis-advantage I don’t have others to tune with, so I try to setup the boat to win in PHRF and not so much as one-design. But still there is a lot to learn…
I am enjoying the tread…
ThanksDale
Zoom #155I have the same exact scenario around Charleston. There’s only one other boat, and I don’t think he’ll race much– so it’s phrf for us, too. I don’t mind, really. We bought the boat to do more extended racing, and as much of it outside the harbor we can manage. I’ll be trying all the tips everybody’s mentioning, so each day out we’ll be learning something new.
Oh Wow….I bought the only other Olson that was in Charleston at the end of 2010…That’s why you have no Olson competition…hehe…There was two or 3 few years ago, but Zoom came up for sale and I went to SC from Houston to pick her up….
Maybe Race week is in our future…
Pretty topside paint! Which brand did you use? Having a one-design fleet for Raceweek would be just awesome! We won’t be able to drive the boat anywhere, since I don’t have a suitable tow vehicle. Even driving it back and forth to the hoist with my Mazda CX-7 makes me a bit nervous.. quite a difference that 500-600 lbs makes over a J24!
Oh- almost forgot to ask a question that’s been bugging me… I haven’t called Ballenger Spars yet, but just to debate the differences between rod and cable rigging, is the windage issue really that significant? I don’t think I need exact minute details (like a vector analysis from wind tunnel testing, which probably doesn’t exist), but does it affect your phrf rating where you sail (assuming you sail phrf)? Also- roughly, what is the cost difference if anyone knows?
Ray
Ray..loaded it might weigh close to 4300 without the trailer.
Rod vs wire? Ask Ballenger. He is very helpful to Olson owners.
Hey- just talked with him. I’ve gotta take some photos to see what sort of tangs I have on the mast end of my shrouds, but there’s one brand (Navtang, I think?) that may run almost $600 per pair, and I’ll need two pairs- hope it’s the cheaper brand on my boat. The compact strand wire would be considerably cheaper- not as strong, but with the double spreader rig, they won’t need to be- leaving performance the only remaining issue. He didn’t think two boats sailing head-to-head, the one with rod rigging won’t just leave the wire rigged boat in the dust, so I’m still thinking. Actually, my wife (head of the House Appropriations Committee) will probably cast the deciding vote on that matter… decisions, decisions!
ooo- pretty! He specifically said “Navtang”, which I assumed was something made by Navtec. Great stuff, but man is it pricey.. I’m hoping to get lucky with this replacement, which will be a first as a boat owner!
Dale,
I have no idea about our panel. Came w/ the boat. I moved it to the hatch top from poop deck. Still works, keeps battery charged, though we rarely use it. Doesn’t make us faster, doesn’t slow us down…way more pressing concerns.
Ray, I will be meeting with Buzz next week – most likely on Wed. I am going to make my single spreader into a double. Perhaps since he would feasibly be doing 2 rigs at the same time, perhaps we could get a deal…. I’ll ask!
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