Jiri Senkyrik
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Jonathan,
I picked up an A3 and and A2 for distance racing and here is why. The shape is a bit more efficient and when squared back on a pole it does fly better than my equivalent symmetric spin. But the main reason I am using them is because they are much easier to trim and steer to when shorthanded. To keep my symmetrical spins flying nicely it takes a lot more work. Another thing is when offshore and dealing with constant swells and changes in apparent wind angle the asyms handle this MUCH better. I am still having a hard time figuring out what the best option is at night (especially with squals – hawaii race). The added complexity of gybing is very unattractive and during some situations it the easy of gybing teh symmetrical make it a winner. Not sure if this is what you wanted, but I hope it helps.
One last thing – if you find yourself on a reach, these make the boat fly.
Thank you, Chris. It is always helpful to see a different layout. A few good takeaways for me.
Thank you, Jean Andre – I look forward to seeing them.
Jean Andre – I was wondering if you had any pictures available yet? I am really curious how this floating leads look on the olson. thank you!
Jason,
Those other stringers are the same as the maststep – they are glassed over 2by4s. My mast step was pretty obviously deflected downward so it was obvious it need to be replaced. To examine it I would drill into it, if you get dark or even worse wet wood it is a bad sign. Hopefully, you get back nice dry wood. If you have the mast out and a spare weekend or two, I would do it regardless. The hardest part was getting the new wood cut to shape and keeping it level with the other stringers.
Jean Andre – can you please post or send me picture of your floating jib leads. I have spent countless hours thinking of how I am going to install mine. bizirka at gmail dot com
Jean,
I spoke to Mr. Ballenger about this when spec’ing my boat for offshore work. The slotted boom comes from a larger extrusion to make up for the loss in material. It is NOT the standard boom with holes. Also, Buzz didn’t say this outright but I got the sense that he felt the only advantage to the slotted boom was the ability to fix things while out at sea, vs taking it all apart.
Ray,
I think the general thought is correct. In practice this is not relevant for the top bearing and somewhat relevant for the bottom bearing. I personally had to cut out the bottom bearing due to expansion but it was a non issue for the fiberglass post. I believe this is because the bearing wore the post down to the appropriate size and expanded into the boat.
Hi Ray, I dont know if they need it, but when mine got a bit squeeky, I just applied a hint of dry lube and it took care of it (not sure if this is the best remedy, but its what I had laying around).
-JiriHave you thought of were exatly you will put the Atwoods? Here in Seattle, i race PHRF, so you bring up an intersting point. thank you.
Hi Lilya,
Thank you so much for the nice offer, I might have to take you up on that. Do people worry about the extra weight aloft?
-Jiri
Interesting, thank you for the explanation. See you guys next year :)
How about the PNW, there are several Olsons here. Perhaps next year.
I am pretty sure it was one quarter Flightline, which is a dyneema core with a polyester-blend sleeve.. Roughly how long is your sheet/guy?
Thanks Al, I am going to go out tomorrow and try it.
Thanks for the reply guys. Can you please let me know how you guys set the thing (were you attached it, etc…). I have never set one and read that people set it from midpoint, or from the toe rails depending on conditions.
Does anyone have any experience running a staysail on the Olson? My boat came with one but I have never used one. I am getting ready to do some longer races, is it worth the hassle?
Thanks Curt, Is this something I can paint over a well sanded ablative?
@Bruce, I fully plan on doing that, but that is going to wait for next year.
I got my boat in May from someone who wet sailed her in the puget sound (estuary: pretty salty water), I don’t know the last time a bottom job was done. She has some ugly blue ablative paint on her bottom as well as a completely bare spot from the rudder rubbing against the hull. I am now in lake union (fresh water) and plan on doing 6 or so weekend trips out to the sound a summer. I have been reading around and given that she will just stay in fresh water, it is recomended wetsanding the current paint to 400 grit and leaving it alone until I have the time to redo the barrier coat and put on some hard paint (next winter). Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Bruce, beleive it or not, I would have not of thought of that. Could just back it up onto some ramps.
I am using internet explorer. Should I give it another shot?
Hi Bruce,
I just removed my rudder the other day. It is pretty simple, I did mine while in the water. I removed the tiller head (pain) and then used a 9 foot long pvc pipe that was laying around the marina to push the rudder down about 80 percent of the way (I lodged it agains my radar thingy). I jumped in the water, tied a rope around the rudder and ran it to a friend accross the way. I then pushed the rudder all the way through as my friend pulled on the rope. The rudder floats and it will want to jump out of the water, so to prevent it from the hitting the boat, your friend needs to pull on the rope so it stays away from the boat. I imagine it is a lot easier if you are on the hard, however I don’t think their is enough clearance to remove the rudder all the way.
Hi, Thank you for all your work on this, I cannot create a new post nor upload any pictures. Am I doing something wrong?
