Old School
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Old School has an aluminum plate that sits on the bottom of the sump and is bolted through the stringer, acting as a compression post. It seems to work, but I have not taken the time to measure if the base is still where it is supposed to be. I believe the base is supposed to be 48″ from the bottom of the deck.
If I remember correctly, Ron Moore has a kit for rebuilding the stringer. Cut out the old one and laminate in the new. Supposed to be pretty easy, although I don’t know anyone who has done it.
How much does it flex at the tip? I would be concerned with the flex on a power reach on the edge…
If anyone else actually wants to make this happen, they have to join the Association at least a month before the Nationals so they are entitled to a vote.
This means now……
It is because the Dark Side is being overpowered by good, man!
email me the pic and I will get the avatar looking right for you.
I can easily create a suppliers page. I just need some content.
Of course, some conversations would have to take place…
I HIGHLY doubt a camcleat would work as a genoa cleat, especially if you are using 6mm line. If the spinlocks can’t do it, then cams won’t.
For the spin, lots of boats use doubled cams, although it might be tough with small line. I run 5/16 poly spin halyard, and have lost the grip a few times. Might have been due to crew error. But, whenever conditions are over 10 knots, we always lock the halyard onto a horn cleat I have mounted on the mast near the deck.
Fattening up the line should be your first priority. If it is single braid, then it is super easy. Double braid, then more difficult but definitely doable. I ran a tracer line in the core of my headsail halyards, then added another cover on top of the original cover. This has eliminated any problems with the spinlocks. (BTW…be sure you have the 0408 clutch, not the 0612)
Any comments?
I led mine under deck, terminated to a horn cleat. I tapped into the mast for the cleats’ mounting bolts, so it is easily removable for stepping the mast. As an aside, I did also switch to a 2:1 halyard.
Reef? What is a reef?
You can see in the attached picture that I have gone for the minimum deck hardware possible. Since this picture was taken, I have mounted a 16 winch (the original cabintop winch) just behind the spinlocks, exactly for the reason you mention above.
If you are looking to replace the stock stuff, then it is pretty straight forward. If you want to modernize it, I would suggest looking at this article that I have not migrated yet…. http://www.pnw.olson30.org/howto/deckbouy.html
Well, in that case, I would suggest that the drill and lash method would be easiest and cheapest. Don’t know what it would do to the strength of the stanchion, but it has been done on other boats
No experience with those, but one of the Chesapeake boats does. Someone from down there might have input.
Perhaps having bases would eliminate the issue of a crew breaking the hull laminate around the socket when falling on it from across the cockpit. Not that I would know anything about that… $$$$$$$
I know some boats have drilled through the stanchions and tied them to the toerail. This would be the easiest solution to your issue.
Templating is a huge job. I got a copy of the “Seattle” templates, and found that my keel would have needed to be ground down significantly on one side, even into the lead. I was not prepared to do that, so I just got one side looking as good as I could, took a template off it, and faired the other to match. A bit of grinding, but the EPA did not have to be involved!
Old School runs a 155, 140, 95, 90 (or so). I can highly recommend the Ullman 140. It is a rocket between 10 and 18 knots. Chuck knows how to draw a fast sail.
Materials…I went through the whole rigamarole a couple of years ago. Spoke with a dozen sailmakers and two material producers. Came down to this…If you can afford it, go with Flex Kevlar at minimum for the #2 or #3. For the #1, the carbon strings come into their own, albeit at a premium. Pentex apparently has too much give for our ultralights.
For mains, the jury is out on the benefits of carbon or kevlar over racing dacron.
6mm…I hope you are talking about spin sheets!
I have 11mm EZFeel (fuzzy poly) for the genoa sheets
Stripped 8mm MaxBraid for heavy spin
Stripped 8mm Flightline. Love the stuff, and use it up to about 18 knots wind
8mm BZZ for the mainsheet, course and fine.I have. It is an interesting ride on a short, steep ramp! I had a 24 foot extension, complete with a large wheel to support the tongue weight. I found that launching, while nerve-wracking, was possible. I had a heck of a time pulling the boat out of the water though. By the time the trailer is deep enough to float on, it is next to impossible to line the boat up with it.
