Old School
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No, the apparent wind is always measured relative to the boat. 85 degrees apparent means that the windex is pointing five degrees ahead of the beam, either on port or starboard. It true life, the boat course will be more like 130-140 degrees from the true wind direction, due to the skewing effects of apparent wind sailing
http://www.sailingmagazine.net/how-to/technique/936-understanding-apparent-wind
Now the real question remains…can you ever sail DDW faster than windspeed?
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=82175The diagram is for apparent wind, not true.
Bill has kindly forwarded me his copy of the apparent wind diagram. It can now be found on the above link.
As long as the copyright holders don’t give me a hard time, the polars can be found HERE
+1. The one J80 that races around here is lucky if he is on the same leg at the end of a course race. We are consistently higher and faster…in every condition we have raced them in. Now, I can not comment as to the skill level of this particlular J80.
Regarding the others, I have no input.
Actually, it is working exactly as it is supposed to… you have submitted an ad, and I have to approve it before it is visible on the site. As I have just returned from a day of racing, I have not had the chance to approve it until now. If you would like the marketplace to become polluted with non-Olson related stuff, I would be happy to remove the approval system.
Exhaustive! They must grow their people smaller than their potatoes if they can fit seven crew on the boat.
Largest change I would suggest would be in the tacking. We always have one person dedicated to grind/final trim, and the other always tailing. These duties usually do not change through the regatta. If the tailer gets tired, we will bring the floater into that position. The way this guide is written, it sounds like the final trimmer is usually tailing as well.
We usually have the two trimmers working together through gybes as well, unless we have a really green person as trim2.
On Old School, we sail with six: helm, trim1, trim2, floater, mast, foredeck. The floater is typically a third trimmer, floating between main trim if windy and spelling off trim3. We do not have a pit…the mast man is the pit as all halyards and pole controls are at the mast.
No penalty for carrying both on L. Ontario either…
I usually put vang on upwind when it is over 15 or so. This year I have been experimenting with twist when it is over 20, and my boat actually feels better and is a couple of tenths quicker with the vang off a bit.
I have an 8:1 vang lead to both cabin corners. No kicker…KISS.
I wonder which “design templates” they were using? I suppose that in 1988 it would have been possible to get the originals.
Want to trade keels, Bruce?
Use a flexible batten to get everything as fair as you can.
We used thin plywood for the templates (3/16 or so). We found that scribing and cutting gave a very nice edge on the top of the plywood, but that the bottom edge had lots of wobbles where the saw blade was bending. So, on the other side of the keel you have to fair to the “bottom” of the template on that side.
Here are a couple of pics: The dark side is the fat side. This pic was taken after I lowered the high spots with a dual-action sander. You can see where the lead was starting at the bottom and sump areas.
The light picture is of the thin side, about half way through the process. Of course, I did not take after pictures…
I should also indicate that I did the keel, rudder and total deck redesign when I first bought the boat, so I have no before/after comparisons. I feel fast, so I must be!
Between the keel, rudder, minor bottom work (more this winter), rigging and deck redesign, I put about 150 hours into it in the first spring.
When I first began fairing the keel, we took templates off both sides. The keel proved to be quite assymetric, but within the tolerances. I then proceeded to thin the fat side to get more in sync with the thin side, but found that I was getting into a bit of lead. So, I built out the thin side a bit, faired it as well as I could, built new templates to that side, then brought the fat side to those templates. Epoxy barrier coat and antifoul. Not a fun job overall, but I did learn a fair bit about faring. I probably had about 40 hours of my time into it.
Interestingly, my rudder was even more assymetric…
I have a set of plywood templates that I made when fairing my keel. I am sure they are not the Seattle CSC templates, but they seem to work. If we don’t get some professional templates, I would be happy to offer up mine.
No visible issues on Old School, thank goodness. Wreaking Havoc broke theirs at CORK in 2009…I believe it was at the vang, but Richard might correct me there.
With the free version of the classifieds app, this is not possible. Only numeric variables greater than 0 can be used. For now, just put a buck in the price and explain what you want in the text box.
Just a note about Richard. He is a great guy, and looks to have nice sails. It is just that I know that I will never be on the start line against Greg!
Call me crazy, but I think that for the majority of Olson sailors, going with a laminate main is overkill. Fifty to 100% more expensive for limited gain. You will get better performance hitting all the shifts with your firm finish dacron main than going laminate, and you can put the savings into other parts of the boat. Now, if you are in the position that you always hit the right shifts, then going laminate might be worth it.
This spring I purchased a one-year old laminate main. I honestly prefer the adjustability of my old, firm finish dacron to the firmness of the newer main. That being said, the new one is quicker when I do get it dialed in.
Of course, headsails are a completely different story. Buy the best laminate you can afford.
Regarding lofts, I have spent a lot of time in the past comparing and contrasting quality, service and price. Service is not much of an issue here in Kingston, because none of the big name lofts are within a two hour drive. I ended up going with Greg Koski at Ullman Cleveland. He trades ideas with Chuck Skewes. The Ullman list price is significantly less than Q, E or N. I have been quite happy with what they have delivered.
BTW, yes I have to approve all ads before they go live. Once you create an ad, I get notified that it is there, and I approve it. Just an attempt to keep the ads Olson related.
It’s up.
I believe I see an “s” behind “KEG”…excellent sign!
For those looking for backstay info, I have set up a new page on the site with images.
http://www.olson30.org/the-boat/tips-and-tweaks/backstays/I would suggest a skilsaw, with the blade set to 1″. Trace out an area on the bottom of the hull approximately 3’x6″, centered on the hull, beginning approximately two feet behind the keel. Cut. That should take care of removal. For repair, I hear Home Depot just received a load of Duck Tape.
YMMV
Get fuzzy poly sheets. They are the bomb. Easy to handle. I use novabraid XLE-Z Feel, but I forget if it is 3/8 or 7/16. My length is about 45 a side, but they are a bit long.
The masts are supposed to be “no greater than 39 feet 5.25 inches”, and the step is probably a bit below waterline.
I will attempt to remember to take some pics of my backstay tonight. I believe it is around 48:1
When the conditions are strong, we just crank everything on, and don’t look up. Ever.
(original single spreader)
The font is called Renfrew.
Here is the jpg…
http://www.olson30.org/wp-content/uploads/group-avatars/1/logo.jpgOld School has a 1/4 Samson Validator SKB, which is a vectran / dyneema 6300lb blend for the primary genoa. Secondary genoa / spin and 2:1 main are 3/16 SKB, 4800lb. Primary spin is 5/16 3400 lb poly…I really do not mind some give in the spin halyard. Thus far, I have not stripped them, just because I am too lazy to sky the halyards to protect the vectran.
I did switch to 5mm dux for my backstay last season. After a season and a half of use, it is showing a bit of chafe where the top batten smacks it, but otherwise not other visible wear. And yes…ferrules instead of blocks.
There is no reason why this forum can’t be a crew list….
I have always thought that placing a piece of channel over the existing stringer would work, but then do you rout a groove into the floorboard and plank to compensate for the thickness? I have seen a couple of boats that have been modified to spread the load over a couple of stringers, and they always seemed overkill, particularly when the actual load point is directly over the first stringer.
The straps are on my list for next spring.
