Curt Rodgers
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My painter ued the same Awlgrip paint/color that he used on the topsides. It turned out great. They blend in nicely.
Where are they being held this year?
We all put a lot of tension on the backstay with our 48:1’s. Has anyone had their forstay pull off the bow? I put a 1/8″ G10 backing plate under the forstay attachment just because it looked like an accident waiting to happen.
Also, does anyone have pictures they would share of boards between the main bulkhead and the forward bulkhead? I would be interested in doing that if folks think it actually helps.
I’d be interested if of couse they work. Looks like speed, wind, depth, compass. If you could give me the model # I can determine how old it is.
How about the electronics…any idea if they work?
Where is this boat? What kind of companion way cover does it have? Also, if it had a double spreader rig, are the spreaders still available?
Thanks for the clarification. Good to know. The only thing I would worry about with a Amsteel/Dyneema back stay would be chaff at the top where the leach normally hits. I suppose you could put a cover on it up there however.
Do class rules allow for other than rod or wire standing rigging?
Ya, to say the least I was pretty concerned about the crack myself. In the end I sanded about a 1/16 of the shaft and covered the top 8″ of the shaft with 2 layers of E-glass, overlapping the joints. It worked out pretty nice and my new bearings fit perfectly. In addition I shimmed the top with a slice of a Fosters beer can and now the tiller head fits very snuggly. All in all, I sure am glad I removed the rudder to check things out.
That said, I’m still interested in an elliptical rudder if anyone has one for sale.
I’m not sure about that. The guys at Interlux were very helpful. I shot them a question online and they answered right away. I found the paint online for $49 + shipping which gets you 2 quarts (being a 2 part epoxy paint). It is mixed 1:1.
You might also want to check out Interlux (127) VC Permormance. It is a 2 part epoxy paint and is an “abative” paint. Very hard and can be wet sanded or burnished. Some of the Melges 32 guys use it here in SF.
If your boat is on a trailer, dropping the tongue down to the ground will give you enough height to remove the rudder. Just to be sure, measure the shaft plus the lenght of the rudder and make sure that total lenght is below the rudder and your good to go.
Now back to my shaft crack issue…
Links to businesses that offer Olson specific products would be useful.
My two cents.
