Dale Swift
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Derek –
That would be great information. Thanks
DaleI think I found my answer from the old e-mail list.
http://www2.sailpix.com/email/olson30/1999/1434.html
The answer is 22.5…..But I like his suggestion better that my thoughts…
I am not sure, I think I should build up on the fiber post where the bearing go, the new ones are as loose as the ones that I am replacing..Maybe it a mis disign in the post
Thanks Jason, I looked at mine 100 times even removed it but never put a meassuring tool to it…Always thought it was 1″….
Thanks again…Dale
Ray – the paint I used on Zoom was “Interlux Perfection” it’s a two part paint, I applied it via sprayer and applied three coats.
Oh Wow….I bought the only other Olson that was in Charleston at the end of 2010…That’s why you have no Olson competition…hehe…There was two or 3 few years ago, but Zoom came up for sale and I went to SC from Houston to pick her up….
Maybe Race week is in our future…
Ray – “Still Learning”, yes me too. I have my boat in the water for 1 year after a total re-furb and I am also still learning. I’m not sure if you other Olsons around you that you can sail with but this will be a big help in your tuning, if not then make the rig straight and follow the tolerances that others have proven to work. I am at a dis-advantage I don’t have others to tune with, so I try to setup the boat to win in PHRF and not so much as one-design. But still there is a lot to learn…
I am enjoying the tread…
ThanksDale
Zoom #155Bruce – #155 has the same forstay/turnbuckle as in your 011.jpg but does not have the same setup as pic 0021.jpg, it connect directly to the plate forward of the tack hooks….
Jim- I like your solor panel, maybe you can give some information on it…I been look for simular design…Thanks
Zoom
#155
DaleChris – I am not sure that I follow you. The only hole I have above the spreaders is the connection for the babystay. And the other hole that is open is right below the deck level so I can run my wires and connect them to the bottom of the deck and run down the bulkhead (see pic)
Bruce – reference the PHRF, I talked to the PHRF in my area last week before this last Saturdays Galveston Bay race and they told me I can change my headsail before the start (because of wind conditions) and they said that as long as it did not exceed my measured rating I would be fine. I noticed a 1D35 and a Soveral 27 change from a #3 to a # 1 and I understood it to be ok. The roller furler like a Facnor FD 190 also you to change your headsail on the fly and it’s a flat deck model. Anyway, just information I found interesting and wanted pass it on…Just by the way, the 1D35 had this model of furler, it seemed sweat..made for a clean foredeck..
I don’t have a autohelm, but I do have the Smartpilot X-5. Which if you don’t keep it sealed will cause a failure when you not want it too. The below deck option should not take away from the deck support because if you look at the pic there is a custom bracket (in-red) that supports the opening. As far as water goes, the seal supposed to stop the water and if’s a major problem then I could install a new seal where you make the open. The 3″ opening that I would cut would be directly under the deck so that should also stop any water and the torgue value should not change (much) (something I’m addressing)..
My other option is install a removable hydraulic ram that could be covered. I think Foolish Muse uses this same technique. This allows him to quickly remove it when he wants to take control. But with the ram inside the boat mounted under the deck next to the top section of the rudder post will also give you quick access and it’s not getting battered up by weather.
Just a little more information.
ThanksThere’s two avenues in my single spreader mast, one at the base where the conduit exits or an exit right below the deck level. I prefer to exit here because it make it easier for re-connection to my equipment. On my mast is VFH, & nav lights and in the future I am contemplating adding a wind instrument, maybe wireless or not..Still debating.
As far as the Roller Furler, I have never been a real fan of this device but I understand that with new engineering they have made great strides in the racing community to be more efficient, I am not sure how this would be good or bad for the Olson, if you just cruising I can see where this would be safer, but full time racing then there is no advantage. Thats my opinion of course, maybe other know different.
But still would like to know HOW to remove the conduit from the mast.
Thanks
TomThe furler is just for discussion, the removing of the conduit is a legit question. This is something I need to do to rerun my VHF wiring….
Texas Race Week is July time frame. There are aprox. 3 boats with-in 500 miles that I know of maybe more.
There are two locations that have cranes, the weather is very warm if not hot to the northern guys and the wind this year was 10 to 18…
Yes a long travel for the northern fleets but it would be fun time.I suggest Galveston, TX….Add to the Texas Race Week venue..
I am working on joining the other Olson,if my sail-maker can get finished with my #3 I will be there, he said that it will be tight, the material is on BO should be her next week. The sail maker is also doing the racing on another boat so his schedule is tight. Some times (id not most) the problem with buy a older boat you get a older sail inventory and this boat “Zoom # 155” is no exception her inventory was lacking a lot…Currently I have a new main and a older almost finished # 1, no # 2 and a great storm jib…So that is the only thing holding me back for this years run. I will send you an e-mail, I have a couple questions for ya..
Also the lifting bolt is: 1″-8 Thread Size
Dale
The Olson Spec on the 5/8″ bolts called out 55 in-lbs. we determined that this was too much and ultimately applied 35 in-lbs.
This came from sailpix…
http://www.sailpix.com/email/olson30/2010/4508.html
Dale
Thanks everyone for your comments and opinion/s this will help a lot.
Whats you opinion of converting an aluminum pole to this configuration?
Is there an advantage of stability of having a center-point of support for the pole D ring as the Forte. I guess that could be a question for Forte but would like to hear about your experience with both pole types.
Thanks
Dale -
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