SWG
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If you go with Quantum you may want to get Todd involved as an advice-giver, he’s Olson 30 class champion 7 times (I think) so he knows what works for an O30! The other thing is it’s a good time of year for sail purchasing, everyone has fall discounts running now or starting in a few weeks.
There’s no free lunch when it comes to sails, unfortunately. Probably your best bet is to contact Todd Downey – Olson 30 class secretary, who is a quantum rep, or Keith Magnussen who is an Ullman Rep and Olson 30 sailor. Or go through your local Quantum or Ullman loft. You are not going to find a good sail that costs $1k less (for example), they will all be in the same $ ballpark like for like.
I am trying to get Joe to send me photos of The Source – he has gone completely floating leads on the whole boat. I am sure he will send soon.
http://www.olson30.org/projects/radical-refit-olson-30-007-the-source
We have both kinds of mainsails, slug and no slug – needs a strop. Both work fine.
not cross-sheeting but many people sheet to the cabin top winches instead of the cockpit winches. so you are not sheeting across the cockpit, but from the cheek block aft of the genoa lead up to the cabin top.
we have 4 winches but the boat is not completely setup yet and there are no cleats installed yet for the cockpit winches (non self-taling). one thing we’ve found is the cockpit winches tend to get in the way of the main trimmer. especially in a big breeze you are pretty active on the mainsheet and traveler and the winch is pretty much exactly where you need to sit to trim the main. we can see now why many people remove them. getting weight forward is part of the rationale for sheeting from the cabin top but clutter in the cockpit is another.
make sure to look over the pages here on deck layouts. they are far from comprehensive but there are good examples to refer to.
also doug, you might consider joining the class association, and also we will send an email so we have your info in the hull database.
Message just received from Jerry Dodge who is our contact at SBYC for LYRA:
To:
Great LakesName:
Jerry DodgeSubject:
O30’s NA’sMessage:
We have a great venue set up for the Olson 30 here in Sodus . The long
distance race is set. The course racing is ready to go with world
class PROs. All that is missing is the Olson 30 Fleet . 6-8 boats
isn’t much of a NAs’. Please help.Surfer Girl and Victrix are the same boat. Surfer Girl is her original name.
Foredeck, Trimmer, any experienced crew. Our boat is new to the area, but used to be in Cobourg (but never sailed out of there).
Our boat is in need of some crew, we have had two people abandon us, and what crew we have left is completely inexperienced, especially with W/L course racing (myself included). So it’s not looking very good but we’re willing to press on if we can get some experienced help.
The original #3 tracks are fine, some people shorten the #1-2 tracks, some of the forward section of track will never be used.
as bill said, there are good photos of the jib tracks in the link above. some of the more spartan layouts would not be good unless you only racing W/L with a crew.
Glad to see this isn’t just an issue for us. Depending on headsail luff tension the tack always wants to come off the horn. One thing we noticed is the horns themselves seem to be tweaked inward, so over time they’ve bent towards one another which also has the effect of opening the horn. We’re going to try a soft shackle through the tack and around both horns which should work as long as the softie is the appropriate length.
Nothing wrong with your post – it’s awesome and welcome to the community!
1 – We replaced the original masthead tri-light with a lightweight anchor light, and installed Navi-Safe LED lights on the bow and stern. The lights are battery powered and mounted to brackets on the pulpit and pushpit. they are very nice quality lights. there are some drawbacks to pulpit /pushpit mounting but advantages too.
2-5 – There is some material in the boat setup pages:
http://www.olson30.org/the-boat/tips-and-tweaks
There are so many variables to consider: What kind of sailing (buoy racing, distance racing, no racing) short or single-handing, crewed; What kind of budget is a huge variable.
6 – for instruments there are so many options and variables and it’s possible to spend a couple hundred dollars or thousands. Many Olson 30 sailors go very minimal with instrumentation. iPad solutions for plotters (iNavx) are minimal and affordable. Our boat has iNavx, handheld GPS, a sailcomp fluxgate compass, a VHF with GPS and AIS and we’re planning to install a wireless NMEA multiplexer to have all the widgets talk to each other, and all of that stuff is quite affordable.
SWG
the strap worked well this afternoon. i’d rather it be some strong webbing with velcro sewn to it but the HD velcro stuck to itself worked fine. the loop part of the velcro slides great on the boom. the taper doesn’t hurt it working at all.
thanks. i just made a mockup strap using some HD adhesive velcro attached to itself, i will give it a try today and make something with webbing inside to suit.
some people seem to swear by the boom bag, but we’re not even used to flying spinnakers yet so it’s all new.
SWG
Boom – a new O30 from Toronto will be at the NAC’s. Surfer Girl / Victrix too.
Note to all who are registering – the Class Association has taken an affiliate membership in LYRA, so in the section of the registration form “Is your Yacht Club a member of LYRA?” choose YES.
To Skip – I know your membership is up to date, just got a message from Todd the Class Secretary.
Completely agree, it’s sad and unfortunate. Hopefully this is just an off year. The venue change very late in the game was a big part of the issue. The Great Lakes Fleet will have to carry the torch this year.
Agree – a good strategy for the PHRF committee would be to emphasize how the Class Association allows the Beam and cables. These additions to your boat should not garner a penalty.
Some of the keel nuts were even looser than 40 ft-lbs, the front most ones were around 25 ft-lbs. Way too loose. I torqued them to 110 ft-lbs.
Inspected keel nuts last evening and they were quite loose, around 40 ft-lbs. Will be torquing them over the weekend.
thanks for the input bruce. your answer is so subjective however. 1/2 drive can be 1 foot long or 18″ long. strength of the person obviously makes a huge difference. it’s possible to put over 100 ft-lbs with a normal size 1/2 inch drive ratchet handle, and 125-150 ft-lbs seems about right for the size of the hardware.
one thing that was confusing me is that i didn’t realize until this weekend’s work session that the lifting bar stud on the keel is larger than the other studs, i thought they were all the same size but the lifting bar stud (aft most) is 1″ and all the others are 5/8″. there is a big difference in the torque used on a 1″ fastener and on a 5/8″, around 100 ft-lbs difference depending on the thread pitch and material.
at any rate, “tighten them until they feel ok” might be the only reliable specification.
This is an old thread but updating it:
Torque on keel nuts. People often call them “keel bolts” but they are not bolts, they are nuts.
My head hurts over this. Dale Swift’s post a few up quotes 55 in-lbs. This is wrong for sure. I looked over sailpix and there are posts but all are confusing.
A 1-inch fastener – which is the size of the stud that the keel nut fastens to – would normally have over 200 ft-lbs of torque applied to it. I am coming up with similar values for similar sized boats. The only specs we have in either this forum or sailpix are calling for 55 ft-lbs which seems way low to me.
I have many torque wrenches and can accurately torque the nuts to any spec needed. What is needed is the actual figure and I am skeptical it’s 55 ft-lbs.
Thoughts?
Todd Downey told me he uses one partner. I can’t recall if it’s at the front or the rear.
Will post some pics of what we have.
the twings are 1/4″ poly line with a Holt plastic snatch block on the end. was looking for examples of how the twings are run. i believe some of the blocks we have were used for the twings, twing line running through block that anchors between toe rail (shackle at bottom) and lifeline (shock cord top of block to lifeline).
Love that Bill Vosteen is still posting here and it’s many years since he had an Olson 30! We need all the help we can get!
Welcome! Go get that J27!
3/4″. The core is 1/2″ and the glass on either side is very close to 1/16″.
awesome dari, thanks.
Thanks for input. I know some people do jaws down but I’ve never been able to figure out why they think it’s preferable.
there are stations here:
http://www.olson30.org/the-boat/tips-and-tweaks/keel-thickness
i will see if i can turn them into something that can be used for making a template. stand by, might be a day or so. i will post on the keel page if i can come up with something useful.
you could also try to contact piotr, looks like he made templates.
http://olson30.tumblr.com/page/11
http://www.olson30.org/members/dr-sailboat/profile/
SWG
It’s common to have the cunningham hook into the cringle of the sail, but a lot of people seem to also like to run the cunningham through the cringle and deadhead it to the base of the mast. I guess this extra bit of purchase is helpful.
The choice between mast base control and cockpit or cabin top control is an interesting one. For our boat I think we’re going to short-hand enough that we have to have cockpit control but for course racing mast base control is better. So for a multi-use boat you have to try to anticipate a bit and make the controls work in two different ways.
