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1. No reason not to use the original materials. Depending on how much core you are replacing, using West System can be easier to work with but polyester resin is fine to use and in my opinion balsa makes the most sense for repairs since it’s what is there already.
2. The boat is well built and you will be hard pressed to improve on it. One obvious improvement is to pot any and all holes in the deck, to prevent water intrusion to the core. The boats were not assembled this way and they should have been.
3a,b,c. I don’t know
The laminate is about 3/32″. The deck is a bit under 3/4″ in most places, 1/2″ core and laminate top & bottom. It’s hard to duplicate this unless you are vacuum bagging the repairs, and if you can bag them, do.
3d. It’s polyester resin but beyond that, don’t know.
There is no core in the keel stub. There isn’t much, if any, documentation of issues with this part of an Olson 30, that I am aware of at least. Have you tried tapping the area with light hammer? The kind of hammer a surveyor would use, they’re usually hard plastic and on the small side, they use it for finding delamination or soft core spots.
I understand what you mean now. I have never seen an Olson 30 trailer of that style.
‘Source’ trailer uses two pads (aka bunks) at the front instead of the single vee-shaped one. I don’t think there’s any big benefit to either setup.
Another trailer I’d use for reference is this one, it’s custom built for ‘The Source’ and has some really great details. I love how the support struts are adjustable so you can move the pads in and out. Looks very expensive to build. I have lots of photos of this trailer. Even this one is not long enough at the stern, ends well short of the transom.
OK. You’re calling the things that support the hull ‘bunks’. I’ve never heard them called bunks before. I would call them pads.
I’ve seen so many trailers over the years, scores of configurations. I can try to dig through photos and find more references of what are proper trailers. Lots of improvised, adapted stuff out there. The trailer for our boat was professionally built and is one of the best I’ve seen. It’s correctly long at the stern, the boat should not overhang the trailer but most do. On this trailer the only change I would make is shortening the posts slightly so it’s easier to remove the pads for hull painting – we remove one pad at a time to paint the anti-fouling in the spring.
Maybe you can use this image at scale to get rough measurements.
What do you mean by ‘bunk height’?
What kind of inboard motor does (did?) your boat have?
Starboard would not be a top choice for this. It’s very soft. On our boat we used UV stable Delrin. Teak or Ipe are very good choices too. If you think about it Teak is really one of the best options. It’s very dense, lasts almost forever, fairly easy to work with.
So far we have tentatively committed Boom (Oakville) and Investor’s Group (Collins Bay) for the CanAm event July 24-25 (we’ll need one more day, either the Monday after or the Thursday or Friday before)
So far we have:
Concerns about COVID and will we be able to cross borders and/or gather. These are natural and important concerns to have but I think if we want to consider an event we have to plan now and react as conditions dictate.
Lake Erie and Windsor/Detroit area boats have an event July 31 weekend so the prefer the July 24-25 weekend, which is CanAm. FYI I have spoken to CanAm organizers and they will accommodate an Olson fleet. The CanAm weekend mandates running our Long Distance race outside of the dates of the CanAm event, CanAm will do this. It could be either on the Monday following or the Friday before.
People are suggesting Class Rule changes or relaxation to permit modified boats.
My suggestions on Rules: Someone draft some suggested rule changes. I nominate Jono Nye. Once we have a rule change draft we can vote on it via email. We might do it as a temporary change for the 2021 North Americans rather than changing the Class Constitution permanently. However permanent Rule changes should not be ruled out either. The issue with any rule changes is following protocols, quorum rules etc. This may be impossible. And the reality is that the Olson 30 Class has been more or less moribund for about 2 years – no meetings or elections etc. This means we have difficulty with procedures but it also means we can more or less make whatever changes we wish to make.
Comments please.
Todd Downey is no longer with Quantum and is pretty much out of the Olson 30 picture now. Ullman has lofts in Cleveland and Buffalo (same sailmakers) and they make excellent Olson 30 sails (from personal experience). North in Toronto have plenty of fairly recent O30 sails made. Quantum in Rochester will make good sails. I know people in Kingston have had good experiences with Kingston Sail Loft.
PHRF-Lake Ontario does not penalize a BOD.
That is the same configuration I have seen and I believe your photo shows how the boats were built originally.
Most of these photos are from the mocking up process. A couple are the done job. The Selden ring is fastened directly to the hull, I played with ideas for a bracket but it fits nicely directly on the hull just behind the centre bar of the pulpit.
The sprit was made from the original spinnaker pole that came with the boat. It’s cut down to about 50+” long and the ends are flipped opposite each other. The inboard end clips into a re-purposed spinnaker pole ring and that slides on a piece of track on the deck. There is a bobstay which you need with the Code 0. That is a a bit of a work in progress making that easy to connect and remove.
The furler is a Selden CX15. We use an A2 and a Code 0.
My boat has an inboard. There were not many inboard boats made. We sail long distance / offshore on Lake Ontario and do some long deliveries. The inboard is much better for this than an outboard. Especially in any kind of sea the inboard is a whole lot better. One design the inboard boat is at a disadvantage.
We have a home-made sprit which was fabricated from an old spinnaker pole and uses a Selden ring / bracket. It’s used with a code 0 and an A2. I investigated the Trogear bowsprits and they seem very good but the solution we ended up with was made for chump change so that was a plus. I can post some photos in the next couple days. The code 0 is a great sail in the right conditions. We have it on a Selden continuous furler.
An Olson 29 is similar to what you’re suggesting. Not exactly the same but some of the details are the same. The 29 is the same hull as an Olson 30 but has a different rig, rudder and keel and some differences to the cockpit and interior. In principle I am not a big fan of modifications that involve cutting significant amounts of the boat apart but your drawing looks like it would work. Hard to know exactly what the mod would do for the ergonomics of the cockpit. The fully open transom boats have more room in the cockpit at the expense of losing the quarter berths, which for people who use the boats for offshore sailing – especially with crew – probably doesn’t work very well.
Good luck with the project!
Boats on Lake Ontario that sail in offshore events are prohibited from having the bilge water pumped into the cockpit drains, so the outlet from the pump is typically re-routed to a new drain hole just beside the existing one. I can post a photo later if you like but basically you end up with two drains on one side of the transom.
Here is the updated drawing after looking at measurements taken from the mockup session. The left side of the drawing is the STBD side from the front, looking aft. The right side is the STBD side from the rear, looking forward. The jock cables and vertical cable are indicated. The endplates are drawn in black and beam in sliver for clarity but the whole unit would be painted either silver or black. The mint green thing on the left is a G10 reinforcement plate for the bulkhead, the landing surface for the chainplate hardware on our boat is compressed and these plates will correct that issue.
Great to have that option Jonathan. And we noticed that you’re registered, that’s fantastic – we very much look forward to you coming this year!
Here are some photos of the BOD mockup. The end plates of the mockup are wood, actual BOD will be 5/16″ or 3/8″ aluminum. Mockup beam is 1″ x 3″ x .125″ aluminum tubing, good chance this will change to 2″ x 2″ x .250″ tube. The 1″x 3″ tube was difficult to roll the hard way without deforming. There will be one more soft mockup prior to making a prototype. One of the photos is the original idea which would be made form carbon over foam but this idea was dropped.
The aluminum BOD I am making will be (I think) less than half of that. Should be around $500CAD including powdercoating. Will post some photos soon.
Fun video.
CCI is the outfit in Ottawa, yes? What are they charging for the BOD? I think they made them for marineoutfitters.ca in the past, this is a business owned by Dave Wilby who was responsible for bringing many Olson 30’s to Lake Ontario.
I have rudimentary CAD files for the BOD we are making. The owner of The Source is difficult to get a hold of and not very online, he’s an old-timer. His BOD is a great design but it’s overkill in a few places and a bit of a weird design because it was heavily modified from the original – it once had a horizontal beam and now has an arced beam but the end plates did not change. So I think starting from that concept but with the arced beam will make a better end result. I’ll see if we have photos of the wood mockup that we made.
With a masthead rig the babystay can help you bend the mast – which is probably why the O30 has one. Most people have gotten rid of them but on our boat we are putting it back. For course racing it can be a pain but if you’re sailing upwind in a lot of breeze and for long stretches I think it’s useful.
I am making a BOD something like “The Source” at the moment. I think we will be able to make more than one if you’re interested. I think that BOD is the best looking one I have ever seen, and I have seen many and looked at photos of most of them that have been installed.
Good luck with your preparations. Did you buy the old “Hot Mess”?
The forestay on this mast is held on the same pin that holds the two wing (spinnaker) sheaves. So it exits the mast box right between the red and blue halyards in the photo. (it not installed in photos but you can see it in one of the pictures)
I agree it looks odd and not good. I haven’t seen a masthead that looks like that before, with the forestay attachment above the mast crane. Normally the forestay pin is buried inside the mast a bit below the top of the crane. The forestay is normally held on the same pin that carries the two outer halyard sheaves, in the middle.
If you scroll down on this page there are some good photos documenting removal of the keel.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/olson30scourge/photos/
The keel is faired to the keep root with glass and filler. Removing it will necessitate re-fairing but there should not be other damage so long as you do the removal carefully.
Did the 5199 drawing come from Foss recently, as a result of an inquiry? Just curious more than anything (not trying to give you the 3rd degree!) Yes it’s interesting how they differ slightly.
Is the image in post 5197 an Olson 30?
