Bruce Hubble
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One way to get the bearings on: How about a little sandpaper on the rudder shaft! Seems to make sense, especially since I’ve already done it. I sanded by hand the whole shaft to clean it up to smooth. That took off the ‘black’ I talked about. It was bearing dust. I sanded the upper shaft where the bearing goes with 100, then 200, then 600 to get the bearing to a tight fit, but moveable by hand. I did the same at the bottom end…using a small block of wood & mallet to push the bearing down to near bottom first. Then did the sanding routine, moving the bearing down to check the fit. So I hope all bearings are originally tight..as my shaft is now custom to the current new bearings! The 600 should make the bearings last. I still might go up to 1200 to make sure. It did not take much off the shaft…hardly anything and they fit nicely.
So, it looks like 1/4″ is no good in 20+. Again..Endura 3/8 with no cover is about 1/4″…you’ll be amazed how light it is and it is WAY stronger. 11000 lbs. 12 strand Dyneema. I’m betting it is lighter than your covered 1/4″. I agree with smaller lines when you HAVE to have a cover. But don’t sacrifice a race with covered undersized lines. Spin guy loads are huge, the biggest load on the boat.
I think 66 ft. 1/4″ is too small for a guy…the pressure is pretty great when close reaching. The bigger line is easier to handle, but you don’t need the cover.
For spin sheets/guys…I like Endura Braid. It is Dyneema 75 braid core..waterproof, very light. I strip the cover off the first 20 feet(roughly)and they are as light as light air sheets. VERY strong and no stretch. 3/8″ is a good size..you can go bigger for handling since you are taking the cover off. 10mm 3/8″ is what I have. With the cover off..about 6mm. I have found it on Ebay at times.
What did you break?
Scot…I test fitted the new bearings on the rudder shaft. They are a bit tight, but don’t you want that? Also..did you have any shims at the bottom and top? I had two at each place. Did you put any graphite on them? My rudder shaft had black powder..might be from the bearings, but I’m thinking the previous owner added graphite. Opinions?
Picture attached of new mast step frame.
The new beam frame is in! I posted pictures in Facebook under Spar Wars Racing.
Here is the direct link:
If someone wants a beam, my friend is a boatbuilder and can make one up. We kept the template.
Way happy this is done. Can’t wait to see the difference this coming spring. That’s when the new floors will go in.
We have talked about the adjustment distance in the forums. I am one of the 24.5 people. That make me one of the more rake aft, but less bend people? I won’t know how the boat acts until next year. This had to be the reason I couldn’t get the forestay tight. With a 1/2 to 3/4″ “shorter” mast (& more under heavy backstay)..everything was off.
I hope my nose & sinuses recover…a tight fitting mask does not get it all. UNBELIEVABLE mess of dust stem to stern.
update:
Tore into the frame today…what a POS design. The frame is a Douglas Fir 2×4, thats it! There WAS an aft piece of 1/4″ plywood that was glassed to the frame and down to about 2″ off the sump bottom. At least I think it was plywood..all I found inside was black mud.
After looking at what was there, the decision was made to cut out everything, but leave about 3″ on each end of the original frame. This was kept to scarf the new framework and keep proper alignment and floor level. All other tabbing was ground/sanded off.
The new frame has been laminated up. It is 1×3″ mahogany pieces epoxy glued and stacked to make a full frame lam beam. Tomorrow it will be cut to shape/fit the bottom/bilge. It will extend down into the bilge and be about 2-3″ off the bottom. It will be totally coated/wetted in epoxy before any glass being added.
Whole project should be done by tomorrow afternoon. Total time…3 afternoons, not counting the time that will need to be spent cleaning up all the dust.
New floors will be put in this spring. Old ones were soft because the factory never painted/sealed underneath. Years of dampness finally made them springy and the removal finished them off. By the way – under the floors was the number 214…my boat is 212. So..214..I have your floors.
To get the rudder out, because of the shaft length, I backed the trailer to the edge of a slight drop off. Then let the tongue all the way down….still was very close to not coming out. Have a shovel ready to make a hole in the ground if you need more space.
The rudder came out easily, so it was probably time for the new bearings.
BTW: when I got my CC statement..$66 US delivered from Pride.
My boat used to be a ‘North’ boat..so with all the extra holes in the step board..I think it was dialed in at 24.5. Glad you have a 3DR..because no 3DL’s exist any more either. Mine disintegrated at 4 years old.
I’m thinking with a new Quantum main coming (Todd Downey listening?) I’ll ask Todd where his step is.
LOL…I had the same experience with both…blooper and staysail. I think the difference is everyone is making trim of all sails a priority while one of them is up.
forgot: 3/16 or 1/4??
Forgot to add: it was made for the aluminum pole..bigger diameter.
It is light..no one hit in three years.
Mine is a heavy sunbrella…sailmaker made it. Same stuff as mainsail covers or roller furl covers.
Here are some mast rake measurements from Ullman:
Rake
To measure your rake you will need a 50 metal tape measure.
Using a metal tape connect it to your main halyard and hoist
it until the main halyard is two blocked. Measure to the
middle of the hull deck joint where the transom and the deck
meet in the center of the boat (in line with tiller). Pull the
tape tight Take the measurement above and add it to the
length of the main halyard
shackel this should be
between39’2” amd 39’4”
To get the correct rake with
the correct prebend it may
require moving the mat but
slightly
Rake
9
Rules of Thumb
The correct amount of prebend varies with the cut of your
sails. Ullman Sails has designed their Olson 30 sails with a
fairly straight mast for optimum performance. If you do not
have Ullman Sails and your sails are very full with a straight
mast you will need to put some prebend in to compensate for
this. Be careful not to carry to much prebend because it will
cause your forestay not to get enough tension and will make
your genoa to full and this will hurt your pointing.Here is a picture of my boom bag. You can see the pole out the end…it really is not a distraction or problem because it is carbon. The full metal might be more intimidating!
When I got my boat..it had plastic pipe joints on BOTH sides of the boom. This is because you can’t put the boom away if the mast is in the way. With the bag..doesn’t matter because the opening is large enough that even if the boom is to starboard you can still put the pole in. YES..you do have to have the pole end aft of the mast to prevent binding. Bridles will work..a bit more work to insert in the bag. We just dump the pole lift/downhaul out of the cleats during takedown.
Length: measure from about 3″ in front of boom aft band to about 3″ from gooseneck. I would say that is 10ft roughly. Aft consideration is the outhaul tack moving for & aft. Front..only consideration is the tack of the mainsail foot. Should have a tie at both ends.
I have been using my Forte carbon pole with D rings and a bag. DEFINITY fast for pole removal and storage. No tangles! Down and away in a couple of seconds. Bag: it has to have an open end as the pole will stick out. I would recommend that the bag taper some to a smaller size aft. It would still be double the size of the pole to prevent binding. The pole is in your face a little bit, but with carbon..not as much fear. Front opening should be about an 8″ diameter. This opening needs a stiff wire sewn into the opening to keep the bag open. The wire needs to make a circle and be fastened into a hoop that won’t come apart (I have to fix mine). We leave the pole lift and downhaul attached when it stows. I can’t imagine NOT using the boom bag. (BTW..we put the bag on the stbd side of the boom)
I would state that the weight is offset by our boomkicker..I think every olson needs one of those as well.
2 cents please.
No genoa sheet resets..ever!
So inside the tube, there must be some kind of stop to hold it? Press in one at the top and in the bottom?
Undo the top clamp, pull the pin and she drops?
Now that I have bought them…anything special to know about changing them?
Pride was $50 US delivered for a pair.
If you are racing it…strip it all off! Hope you have a barrier coat…fresh water I have heard is worse for blisters. Fair the whole bottom longboarding. Then 3 coats of barrier (inter2000). Then check with local racers what they use. Hard paint with a lot of copper is the mix for racing. You can polish it to a mirror. Up north, we use VC17. I think there was a salt water version. I love this stuff…can recoat every year with no build up. I’ve heard it is not so good for anti fouling in warmer fresh climes.
Hadn’t thought about the shaft being too long to remove while on the trailer. I suppose I can back it over a cliff and drop it!
I’ve never removed my rudder, but with all the talk about the glass shaft and bearings, I’m thinking of doing it for inspection/maintenance purposes.
Any science needed to do this operation beyond unbolting the head and dropping it? I have an elliptical.
Old School: you are right…who is the qualifer? Plus: vertical from deck or vertical to the water? I believe it is from the deck angle…my stanchions are straight…no bend.
Capacity…capacity of the drains to handle the bilge water faster than you can pump? I don’t think that is an issue on the O.
Comfort on an O30? We did 5 last time. Will go with 6 next. There really is no comfort on a sailboat in a long distance race. Last year I was on a Bene 36.7 with 8. Butt pain is exactly the same. Besides..I found the pipe berths in the O more comfy than the wet cushions in a flat berth on the Bene. The key to a long distance race is ear plugs and a mask for daytime sleeping.
To all: the ISAF rules are the strictest and can be moderated by Sailing Instructions/NOR. For instance…the ISAF mentioned double braid dyneema..but Chi Mac says:
13. Lifelines — Boats must have taut double lifelines made of stainless steel wire and/or single braided Dynema rope, supported by permanently installed stanchions. Upper lifelines shall be no less than twenty-three (23) inches above the working deck. No vertical opening shall exceed
twenty-two (22) inches.14. Stanchions — Boats must have permanently installed stanchions. Stanchions shall be straight and
vertical except that:
1. within the first two (2) inches from the deck, stanchions shall not be displaced horizontally from the point at which they emerge from the deck or stanchion base by more than 3/8 inch and,
2. stanchions may be angled to not more than ten (10) degrees from vertical at any point above two (2) inches from the deck.20. Bilge Pump(s) — Boats shall have at least one (1) permanently installed manual bilge pump operable with all cockpit seats, hatches and companionways shut. Unless permanently installed, each bilge pump handle shall be provided with a lanyard or catch or similar device to prevent accidental loss. Bilge pumps shall not be connected to cockpit drains unless the combined system
has sufficient capacity to handle the maximum combined volume. Bilge pumps may not discharge into a cockpit unless that cockpit opens aft to the sea.I’m sending these Chicago specs to illustrate that safety rules are regatta specific. My boat is up to specs for ChiMac.
Did you inspect the other side? My guess: wear that was enhanced by electrolysis. Two different metals will corrode each other. You have aluminum and steel and stainless steel? Judging also by the red rust…was the pin stainless? Look at the other side..if the hole is elongated into an egg..it is wear from movement. If the metal is disintegrating..electrolysis.
