Bruce Hubble
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I’m not eligible at this point. The 101 rating was some other boat, but I was assigned their rating via sistership. So, I need some data on other inboards that might have been measured in the past for IMS, ORR or IRC. I’m pretty sure I will get to the 103, I just have to be measured.
So I’m looking for boat names mostly so I can search.
Isn’t I 36.5 and ISP is 36?
Ballenger Tuning Guide:
Great unit! Easier to read than the TackTic. Easier to use. Sell the extra readout and make yourself a new single bracket.
I’m guessing they are NOT connected. The white box next to the breakers belongs to the sailcomp, not those other instruments. The fluxgate has two spare wires in its wire setup that can connect to NMEA 0183 devices. It would only show things like MAYBE true wind. Limited ‘sentences’ in the sailcomp. In any case, the wind instrument/depth/speed are not connected to the white sailcomp box. There is no plug in on the white box for ‘other’. Two plugs are used by the readouts and one goes to the pushbuttons. The other is a hardwire. Be gentle unplugging them..squeeze first and pull. I use pliers for the squeeze, but gently. $300 to $350 for the sailcomp with ONE readout. Probably can get $100 for the second readout and $50 or so for the double bracket. (ebay guesses)
WOW! Just checked out NEW: $1300!! OUCH! The above prices would be VERY good.
Info:
The world’s most popular tactical racing compass
The accurate and dependable Sailcomp 103AC is the most widely used, electronic tactical sailing instrument available today. Ideal for racing sailors, the Sailcomps waterproof, remote display provides easy-to-read heading, windshift, and off-course steering information wherever you need it the most. And its standard NMEA 0183 output allows it to interface with other onboard equipment, including radar, autopilots, plotters, PC software, Loran, and GPS. With its simple keypad and easy-to-read display, essential navigation data, and superb compatibility, Sailcomp gives you the edge you need to win races!
Highlights:
•Easy-to-install components designed to military quality standards
•Automatic compensation ensures the highest degree of accuracy (0.5°)
•Waterproof, backlit LCD display with large numerals offers clear viewing during both day and night; additional displays may be added wherever they are needed
•Interfaces with other NMEA 0183-compatible equipment; links to Loran or GPS to display cross-track error, distance to waypoint, and bearing to waypoint information
•Simple, remote push-button selection of head/lift, starting timer, and off-course modes
Specifications:
•Output Type: NMEA 0183When you remove the Sailcomp: DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES! The wiring is very sensitive!
The 103 Sailcomp is a standalone unit..from the picture it has two readouts..I have a Sailcomp on my boat and two previous boats…BEST tool you can have on the boat. Has countdown; records head/lift and is a digital compass. It has a fluxgate compass unit; cables and control unit and a 4 button topside control. It does have capabilities to communicate, but I’ve never thought they were necessary. The other instruments are NOT a part of the Sailcomp. Sailcomp was made by KVH..they have sold out to someone, but still on the market. Excellent! (only one readout is needed) the other can be sold separately as a remote to an existing owner or as a replacement part.
Dari: does it have the tracks for the stove? Mine are missing and I have to use the stove in the Chicago Mac. I bought some dinghy track, but it isn’t the same.
Or is Dari selling some off his boat? Mine were missing when I bought the boat. We have to have cooking for the Chicago Mac race. I have the stove.
Old School..want to sell your stove tracks?
I have a turnbuckle attached to the front side of the mast that goes up to the deck. Was this ‘standard’?
To me…if the deck can’t go up, the chainplates don’t come in.
Al..your .docx file won’t work. Change it to a jpeg?
I don’t have one, but your question begs the question of “why?” do we need one? I feel that maybe the frame (wishful thinking) I replaced below the mast will solve the compression problems of the O30. I have an attachment on the front of the mast to the deck (below deck) that prevents the deck rising. If the deck can’t rise, how would a bod help?
Looking for reasons….sorry about the hijack of your topic..but it seems the right thing to discuss before you ‘engineer’ a new one.
How much for the whole thing? I might be able to sell it for you!
Keep it low..would have to be hauled to Michigan! I have a crew member that rebuilds boats…but it has to be low enough in price to justify the material/labor to make it sail or saleable.
Keeps water out of the boat?
Really..wouldn’t an Autohelm be easier? That’s what I use. $350.
by the way..i turned my hatch to open forward. With sheets attached, you don’t want a wave over the bow being caught by a slightly open hatch.
never had an issue. Spin change..bring up to deck the new spin in a launch bag; detach old and attach new..no problem. Old chute below…repack in launch bag. Everything up front is gone except spare spins..I carry 4.
Ditto…down the hatch..and don’t detach the halyard or sheets( use an APS velcro for the guy/sheets pre launch). Halyard behind the spreaders upwind. Covered all the hatch bolts with 1/2 of hot water pipe foam insulation..gorilla glued on and covered with a layer of clear spinnaker repair tape for endurance and slippery.
Exactly what is wrong with the boat? I have a friend that saves boats and flips them. Of course, he gets them real cheap….let me know.
I’ll take the winches..my Barients are tired.
Maybe post some pictures. Does it have a BOD, for example?
Winches are ?Note: if it gets cut up…put that in the O30 database
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Is that what those tracks are? I have pipe berths.
Lake Michigan PHRF give a handicap CREDIT for roller furling…IF it is the only headsail and no change during racing season. That pretty much says NO on an Olson. If the Olson was a frac with a huge main, yes..a 100% jib might be the only headsail you need. Olson..never get away with it unless you want to stay at the dock in light air (if you go 100%) or in heavy air if you go larger.
Regarding conduit…what is the point of removing the conduit if you are still running wires? I sail the ChiMac & it requires a masthead antenna..so rather than have issues with halyards, etc..my wires are in the conduit. If you are going for weight aloft reduction..strip out all wiring, conduit and put on different nav lights and a pushpit antenna.
Amsteel is very wear/abrasive resistant. It is also very slippery. I had a 3/16 robline dyneema lifeline rub on a post for a day…barely a mark.
Actually Jim..I didn’t see any such rule. I only saw minimum weight, including shrouds and running rigging. Rope is not even mentioned for the backstay.
Not sure, but to me paint thinner leaves a residue and another step. Acetone will remove wax.
Paint thinner? Not sure about that. Acetone maybe would be better. Let it dry.
Curt…this split is a bigger problem than you think. First..the split should be epoxied/glued back together. That can be tough if the present epoxy/polyester crack gets a wax blush on it..new epoxy won’t stick! Injecting the crack could be a bad experiment.
You might need to ‘finish off’ the crack by breaking it open so you can clean it properly and re-epoxy the whole thing. Screws will hold the glue up, but you can’t squeeze out all the epoxy! That means the shaft will grow, but it is sandable. I’m NOT an expert at epoxy, but I have learned to not assume it will stick! Maybe a contact to West Systems for an idea of what to do? They can be helpful.
Bruce Rand: Do you have a picture of your mast step anchors?
Bought 39 feet of Amsteel 1/4″ for $17 on ebay. I rough measured the rod @ 31 ft (for the records). I’m going to use a single block on the bottom and replace the wire with Amsteel.
