Bruce Hubble
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So…Lake Michigan and So Cal don’t penalize…yep..go to work on your PHRF committee’s. That ‘rule’ is not fair to you and the sport. You can only fly one at a time…so which is faster? Neither! There is no pen for A or S, so why does two on a boat matter?
I’ll give a report next week. This weekend we have a regatta that on Saturday has very long runs…some may be on the beam (known as “tour of the bay”). LMPHRF does not have a penalty for carrying both any more, so I’ll carry both. I agree with Al, for W/L courses, the A is too much work…unless it is blowing stink, which will send the apparent wind far enough forward to use it. Mine is an A3…fairly small. So we use it for 70-90 apparent where the genny is at a weak angle and not good for the runner.
Work on your phrf committee..I did. I asked..”if there is no penalty for having an A Sail, why does it matter which one you fly?” It worked.
It is holding up great Jim…forgot to add! Maybe my keel is “the one” to template?
Here is the reply I got from the previous (only) owner on keel work:
Long ago in a galaxy far away…. In Dallas in 1988…. I had the keel stripped to bare lead and faired to the design templates using AwlGrip epoxy fairing compound. Then it was skinned w/ 2 layers of cloth (epoxy resin of course) and barrier coated w/ 2 gal Interlux 2001. Lots of long boarding and blocking involved. The shop that did it (now long gone) was the go to shop for J 24 keels at the time. Hopefully that job will last a long time being as it’s all epoxy. Last time I saw it, it looked pretty good. How’s it holding up?
OEM Olson 30 keels were faired w/ Bondo (no shit) , skinned w/ 1 layer of cloth and finished with gel coat. They were faired and finished beautifully and signed by the head keel guy, but were not really water proof. This was however, the accepted way of doing keels in Santa Cruz at the time and all the builders ( Olson, Moore, and Lee ) took great pride in the fairness and finish of the foils on their boats. Because all small race boats (Moore 24, Santa Cruz 27, Olson 30, Express 27) were dry sailed at Santa Cruz harbor this was not thought to be a problem. However, when the boats were left in the water continuously, the keels could act up. It was not unusual to see large blisters develop – happened to me. The only real way to fix it is to strip off all the polyester based materials and start over like I did in ’88. When you hear guys complain about the keel shape on a boat they just bought, keep in mind these boats are 30 years old in some cases. While the keels were fair when they left the factory, no telling what kinds of repair jobs have been done over time.
Todd…with your expertise with the Olson..you should be the ‘go to guy’. Tell us more about Q for Olson.
I’m only 50 miles from Quantum Traverse City…the world headquarters. Todd..can we coordinate any for a ‘group’ purchase?
And to add my two cents…vang is not needed until the boom is near the end of the traveler. The main sheet tackle can handle the leech easier than the vang.
I installed the fonts from this site:
Quantum world headquarters is only 50 miles from me. If we could get some deposits for spring delivery…just maybe we get a good deal. A local guy works there doing their repairs and graphics (TP52-Quantum). Let me know..I would like to buy local..but pricing is premium on single sails. They do discount around November.
Forgot to add: the 3DL’s I got with the boat that were barely used fell apart in the first season. It wasn’t due to use..age kills them. The glues/laminate fell apart like dandruff…leaving only strings. I was way bummed. I have never seen anything like it in my 25 years of racing. They were 5 years old, but only up a couple of times…3 sails gone in a season.
I have a Sobstad suit of dacron main/genesis platinums for #1 & 3. Bullet proof. I’m on my 4th long season and only the #1 is under consideration for this year. It is intact and trims great..just a bit softer than new. #3 is awesome. Main will be next after the 1. I agree..dacron..remember you don’t reef an Olson! My sails were built by Richard via Phil Kaufmann (UFO). I would do them again. The history given me is that they are 4th generation design out of California for Olson specifically. Zero repairs and we race HARD.
Spar Wars #212…. 24 1/2 “
I’ll try to remember to measure tonight. Previous owner had experimented with several positions and I left the ‘last’ one as is. Since it had a good race record, it might be a good starting point.
PS: to all…I have a “true” double spreader rig from Ballenger on my boat. I’m thinking of boosting the Kg’s to 650kg to get rid of some slack in leewards. Lowers are tighter.
tried adding one, twice. Not sure if it took. Delete the first one if you have to approve it before publishing.
Leave it in! get them to agree to adjust your time by 3 seconds a mile. (yeah, I know….fat chance) Actually, you can tow them all out to the course and get a favor? Or race as is and see if it really is slower. (can you tell I have an inboard?)
oops..missed your flicker comment.
I would like a pic to see the three ferrules to see if it adapts to my cascade ok. I hate my rod backstay..ugly and doesn’t want to clear the batton if backstay is off. Have you considered a flicker? I had one for my rod backstay, but it wasn’t strong enough. If I go rope..it will come back!
Hijacking the original theme, sorry. BUT maybe I’m done with one question..how did you rig the line? SS thimbles at mast top I presume…but how about to the block at the cascade? Is this where you are using ferrules?
I’ve seen some boats put like an electrical shrink wrap over the line as a side note to prevent chafe from battens.
thanks!
Dari: you are replying to my backstay question? If so..how often do you think it will need replacement? I have 3/16th for my lifelines…second season and they look great. I trust them a lot more than wire. I’m using Robline 75 Dyneema. Same stuff for backstay..hmmmm.
Thanks Jason…I reduced back down to 600 kg or so when I saw that Harken instructions said no more than 500 Kg. The battery was getting low, so maybe I was getting a false read because now I have some slack in the leewards. 1000 lbs is 450 kg I think. Something isn’t right..I’ll hope it is the battery! If not..back to Ebay it goes! May be that it is only good for wire, although it says ok with rod.
You could haul the halyard into the mast and have a retrieve line for sacrifice purposes. Anyone using line for a backstay? Size?
Totally different perspective. Now that give me more encouragement to remove the whole stringer and replace as you did. Just need something that won’t compress/rot. The IPE idea is making sense. Or a piece of alum/ss channel over the top of the wood. I always thought of wood as being a mold to shape the FG. But to support a mast compression, it is asking too much of the glass & wood only 3-4″ wide.
Thanks!
Wow..that is ugly. Only 1/4 inch? So that gives me a great idea how much glass is there…almost all of it! I can see it was crushing…and wet. It was plywood, right?
On a separate note..I have a couple of ‘classic’ ‘Surfline’ genoa lead blocks on ebay. Should have offered them here. Search Schaefer lead block
Want to make your boat ‘stock’? LOL
Pictures of ‘fixes’ would be nice!
It’s not bad enough to cut out. It needs cosmetics or you wouldn’t even notice. Goal is to solve it. Rules look like you can’t build across the stringer..say with an SS channel over the stringer..correct? The basic problem seems to be that all the stringers are not sharing the load. Spreading load across the one stringer would help. Then use a SS ‘plank’ to make a T or cross over the three(?) stringers. Added weight is not an issue when the mast is getting shorter…LOL
If you have blisters..they will come back. Grind/fill/fair and then put on the barrier coat. Make sure you strip off all paint first. A quick overall sanding will highlight the ‘raised’ bumps. Ton of work, but mandatory on a balsa core boat. Take advantage of the 5 years of drying.
Tropical…out of my cool freshwater knowledge. I like hard paints…get all the copper you can is my guess.
Aluminum would fold like a bent straw…don’t even think about it!!
The carbon can take it. The flex at the tip is less than the flex on sprit boats..only flexing from mid point out..so 6′.I store outside in the winter: stanchion bases get blown out with air; then add a bit of RV antifreeze and good old duct tape over the top. I have zero splits/cracks etc that can come from freezing.
For the people with loose stanchions…have you looked inside at the sockets? I’ve seen pictures of stained socket bases on other boats.
Center point: advantages are small, but add up. Don’t have to deal with bridles..clumsy at times. Pole ‘spins’ easier during gybes. The pole lift and downhaul are directly opposed to offset each other. Carbon is super strong and very light..a one arm easy lift. D Rings don’t break.
Stability? probably the same when hooked up. When the pole is at the forestay, the end of the pole bends up and down a bit in waves..but Forte says it won’t break! Don’t forget they build the sprits for Melges 24’s and the like.
