Bruce Hubble
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You need a gin pole that is at least 6-7 feet taller than your lower spreaders off the deck. The gin pole needs a forestay, twin backstay and two shrouds. Then you need a 2:1 purchase at the top of the gin to lift the mast. Remember you have to lift the lower part of your mast through the deck.
I used to do this with my J/24 with an aluminum tube. You would need a stiff one to support the weight of the mast and your pulls. It seems scary the first couple times you do it. Get less scary. Don’t hoist in a blow!
I used the ‘up to 28 feet’ one. Came with two sets of rods. I like the heavier ones. I justified the up to 28 because the O30 boom is equivalent to a 28 ft boat in my opinion.
Don’t cut the rods too short!!! When fully relaxed..they should lift the boom just a bit over level. The reason is that when off the wind..if you want a bunch of twist off, the boom could lift out of the bracket. Hasn’t happened to me, but I see it moving towards falling out. That is not a disaster..just a distraction.
I moved the primaries to the cabin top and put the secondaries in a box in the garage. The topping lift is lead to a dual clutch with the jib halyard in the other side.
Jib sheets directly to the primary winches.
I like Schaefer sure grip cam cleats…they hold (metal teeth)
1/4″ is plenty big. If it says amsteel and is gray and slippery..it is the marine version and most likely SK75. STRETCH IT hard before putting your thimbles in. It isn’t really stretch, it is ‘alignment’. It needs to be almost stiff before you can accurately measure it to fit. Because it is slippery..use long eye splices. I wove it up & down 3 times before inserting the core. Then I seized at the thimble. Do one end..then measure for the other.
You are talking ONLY the backstay, correct? It is not good enough for any shrouds, etc.
It really wasn’t hard to shape the mahogany. You make a cardboard template first, maybe a fore and aft pair. The bilge is fairly square, so it is easily fine tuned with a belt sander. Just take some time. Remember the epoxy needs a small gap to glue properly. You fill that gap with epoxy that has silica made into a real thick mix..at least peanut butter. You don’t want it to sag. Put in fillets; tab it; wrap the whole thing in a glass coat and call it good.
If the others are foam…hmmm….I might replace them all some day.
The original frames are wood…most likely Douglas Fir. I agree that other than the mast step, the foam could be fine…but I worry that foam won’t take the compression load of the mast.
Please post pictures of your progress!
PS: Can be done in a weekend.
Slabs..glued up with 3″ top (2.75 actual) Does that make more sense? Make a rough pyramid, then use a band saw to the rough oversize shape. In the boat..take a hand grinder/sander to make the custom fit with about 1/8th” gaps to the hull. Thick epoxy fills the gap..then tab it with heavy cloth after putting in the fillets. Then cover it all with cloth and epoxy. Before gluing in…wet/seal the whole piece with straight epoxy, then glue in right away. Then tab right away…let that get tacky and then cover the whole thing with cloth. ( this avoids having to sand to remove blush )
My professional boat building friend used mahogany. It is easy to shape and is very strong. Coat in epoxy 100% and it will last a hundred years. Remember to sand the epoxy coat when tabbing it in.
If the mast step is not 2 1/2″ wide 90% down into the sump..tear it out too. It needs to be built up very strong.
The RT 10 is for rod 4,6,8,10,12. That’s us!
I did long splices…no need to scrimp. About 18″. This stuff is slippery and I wanted to not have a worry. I used SS thimbles and seized with thread at the thimble.
Overall..about 6″ of creep is my best guess. I didn’t pre-stretch, but recommend it.
I think the rod on the Olson’s are -4..the smallest.
To compensate for the initial creep, I have one section of the back stay adjuster that can be shortened to take up the inevitable creep. I used 5/16 (7mm?) gray Robline 3000 I think. I know I used it for lifelines (3/16). Once the creep is out..I don’t think I had ANY stretch. I’m on my second season and it looks new. (we don’t have intense sun and heat to deal with) Heat is the enemy..this stuff has a temperature level that the tropics might not like.
“only 8600 lbs”…that’s double the weight of your boat.
Max..I bet you are not putting 2000 lbs pressure on it. Go with 1/4 and replace every couple years. I bought a Melges 32 flicker for $25..but shipping was another $25. Forget trying a batten…looks right..doesn’t work.
Key is doing the prestretch. Tie your truck to a tree with it. Put it in reverse…then park it overnight with a ton of pressure. It doesn’t stretch, it just ‘adjusts’ the fibers into alignment. The rope will be stiff when ready..almost like wire.
The font style is REVUE True Type Font.
If Scott can load it, there will be a PSD file which is a photoshop O30 Logo.
I’m 212…and you may be correct. Seems that I did hear that the brunyzeel was an option. So…birch if it is light and brunyzeel if red/darker John.
Most likely it is mahoghany…with no stain. Mahoghany can be very blond left natural or bleached.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15446
Bruynzeel Mahoghany
285 miles from Sarnia to Harbor Springs. Michigan gas currently is $3.10 to $3.30 a gallon…cheap by Canadian standards? Sales taxes on stuff: 6%
It’s time for some travel gang!
I’ll restate for Harbor Springs… Probably need 5 boats for a minimum? I’ll be there anyway..Opus Dei?
It would be two weeks after the Chicago Mac and one week after the Port Huron on July 26,27 & 28. Ramp launching is available and a marina next door for mast hoisting or launch at a fee. I’m sure I can get a deal from Irish Boat Shop. Harbor Springs is a very cool town..look it up. Parking is difficult at times except in the ramp area with a trailer. Bring the family and send them up to Mackinac Island. They’ll love you! Dockage is around $35 a day. You will see some of the top Great Lakes boats (70’s and TP52’s and the like) in the regatta. Awesome participation.
Race Friday is one design; Saturday and Sunday with PHRF fleets. I can get a LMPHRF certificate for you for $25 to participate in awards for the regatta. We would score all 3 days for NA. Thurs Fri and Sunday would be 1 mile W/L’s on Little Traverse Bay. Saturday is a 22 mile up and down the bay course, never hitting the same buoy twice. Little Traverse Bay can be windy or light and offers near offshore wave experience. Food on Saturday and Sunday are included in race fees ($350 in 2012 for 3 days racing) as well as free beer/brats/band at the Friday night crew party. With the food and entertainment and first class sailing, the price is way worth it for a crew of six. A State Park is about 5 miles away or lots of motels.
I use the 1000. I’ve run my spinnaker with it, but on a reach..no way. The 2000 is faster and stronger according to a friend of mine and uses it on an S2 7.9.
On a run..1000 is okay. I’ve gybed single handed with it..hitting the +10 button 6 times and pull (A sails). In a blow..I dampened the response down so it didn’t oversteer in waves. Go 2000 if you want a faster, stronger response in big stuff. Buy a bunch of extensions to reach from beam to the tiller. 12″ is probably right.
PS: I shouldn’t have said sanded. I did clean it up so the bearing wouldn’t get scarred. The bearing has a bit of give I’m guessing. Take your time tapping it down. The upper is easier.
Do this instead since you like ‘thousandths’.
Measure the inside bearing and the outside of shaft; I bet they are close or tight. Don’t ream the bearing…it is probably what you need in oversize. Use a hammer and tamp the lower bearing all the way down on the shaft before reinstalling the rudder, use some graphite. The upper is installed last. I used some blocks to hold the rudder up in the boat while installing the upper.
Think about a crankshaft that has been turned…use oversize bearings!
the shaft is strong. If it breaks..deal with it. I haven’t heard of anyone breaking one.
When I put my new bearings in..I had to sand the shaft to get them on. Pride Marine.
So, unless you SEE questionable wear, the new bearings should be fine to take up the space.
Opus Dei..Chris. I need to talk to you..
email: sparwars at att.net
send me an email. Chicago Mac may not be a race you want..
If I go outboard, I would change my interest in the NA’s. :)
Ray…I’m contemplating removing my Yanmar GM10. Interested? I may go outboard to solve my eligibility for the Chicago Mac stability index. It only weighs 160 lbs. It is about 10 years old and operates perfectly. Probably the price for me to get a decent used outboard 4 cycle.
ORR is sticking to it’s guns. They are also the rule for the Trans Pacs. Olson’s are no longer in the TransPac as they don’t meet the stability. The single handed is not ORR. (I’m pretty sure on this, but….) When ORR gets dumped…we will begin to be eligible again. Talk with Jim Teters at US Sailing about the stability rule/rating and ORR. They do want to help, but are limited in promises you will pass.
Derek…back the boat over a ditch. You will need about 3 feet. Elliptical takes more of a ditch.
Drag it north in late July..Race the Port Huron to Mackinac. It is 270 miles. We’re trying to get a bunch of Olson’s. It is not that far for you.
Ray..I had PLENTY of experience of what you are talking about.
First…I’m doubtful you will get to 115. My ORR sistership stability (inboard BMW boat) was 100.9. This is what you will be assigned without a measurement.
You disclosed to me that you have a huge engine. This will make the cause worse! Here is my idea of what helps and what hurts.
Anything above the keel at floor level hurts the stability measuring process. It is actually the waterline, but think floor. Your engine and fuel tank will hurt.
I added 80 lbs to my keel..same shape as original..about 3″ more draft. I went from unmeasured 100.9 to a 104.1. I had to meet a 103 for Chicago Mac. You need 11 points more, plus have a much heavier engine that is above the centerline and located aft. This might mean a torpedo of 200 lbs or more. AND as an insult, they will rate you faster in the handicap. Adding 200 lbs to the keel starts to bring up structure concerns. Can the keel sump handle that weight?
I’m dropping ORR/Chicago Mac because the Port Huron/Mac is PHRF with no index required. I’ll be cutting off my 3″ of keel. The extra keel does make the boat a bit less tender, but in my opinion it screwed up the balance of the boat and as a result it seems slower.
Hate to throw water on your event, but 115 seems out of reach. Have any J/29’s done that race? They had to modify to make ORR 115 stability. It might give you an idea how much weight is needed. Hire an engineer.
