Bruce Hubble
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I have a decent condition original hatch. Cheap plus shipping. I painted the frame and it looks good!
I replaced my hatch so that I could open aft again. The new one has locking handles and two positions to lock; one is open a half inch, perfect for sheets. It required building up the flange an inch and a quarter which repels water as well. The flange build up was so the hatch could lay flat aft.
Size should be about the same for all spinnakers, except maybe a 1.5 oz.
That said, the shape is the determining factor for a reacher or runner. Talk to your favorite sailmaker.
Attached is my latest spin measurements. It is a S2+ (plus is for built to 20 true).6 oz material
It is a tight fit to the shaft. You only want to be able to just twist them by hand once they are in position. The coupler holds them tight enough (greater area) to prevent slip there. I have to tap mine on the shaft with a block and small hammer. How’s that for a measurement?
PS: check “the bottom paint store” online. Best place I found AND they pack nicely.
Fast delivery. Free shipping above a dollar amount that is easily exceeded.I’ll probably get booed, but I’ll report the results to see if valid.
I’m going to use Rustoleum 2X satin black that has built in primer. My reasoning is that my rails are in pretty good shape, with few dings/scratches. I’m only putting on from the stem to just at the chain plates. These get little abuse. If it chips..it is still good beneath it. I only want to bring them up to ‘new looking’ to match the rest of the boat.
Report at 11:00 news.
More clarification:
1. The 1000 model is a little slow, but I think strong enough to mount at mid tiller in all but stormy conditions.
2. You have to consider the amount of swing the autohelm is capable of. At the end of the tiller, it will be strong, but limited in travel and poor results in wave action.
3. If you think you need the horsepower and max swing, get the 2000.I mounted the pin for my autohelm just forward of mid tiller.
Coamings. Pain in the butt, literally. But they keep you on top of the deck when heeled. I removed them and put low blocks on the seat top for a foot brace for the skipper and trimmer. Much nicer.
Then you can mount the round flat mount on top of the deck for the 1000. You will need 3 extensions of 4″ (I think that is right) to get to the pin on the tiller. For deliveries and brief help sailing, the 1000 is adequate. Singlehanding in a breeze: 2000 model is faster.
I have a Raymarine Autohelm 1000. Mounted one end on the deck with their base mount. It is low profile and doesn’t hurt to sit on it. You will need 3 extension rods on the arm to reach the tiller. I assume you have the coamings removed? If you don’t, mount a block of wood to it with the right size hole in it. Make sure the grain is cross, not vertical.
I used a strip of aluminum. Screwed it into the top and extended it out the front. Make it thick enough to avoid bounce. A double piece would avoid bounce if bolted hard. About an 8″ strip by 1″ should do it. 5″ on the mast and 3″ out front. That’s my recollection, not actual!
I notched the bottom of the light to fit over the aluminum. Mounted the antenna on the side of the mast. Windex aft of the light.
I also mounted a Melges 32 flicker!
Initial wood frame. This will be shaped. Pic attached.
I’ll be adding to the flange on my boat during it’s remodel. I’ll document with pictures! It appears the hump in front of the hatch is too high for the lid to lay flat. I’ll be adding to the flange to get the hatch up to the same plane. Should be within the next couple weeks.
PS: PHRF does not care about modifications that are related to stiffness. They should be reported, but don’t fear any rating change.
Hull shape; mast changes; sail changes; weight increase/decrease..those are mods that change PHRF.
I can tell you with a bunch of assurance: the toe rails contribute zero to stiffness. At best they fasten the deck/hull seam. None of my fasteners were tight enough to consider that ‘the fastener’ of that seam. It is resined together and tight everywhere except one common place…mid windows on both sides. The interior glass wasn’t broken, so it appears for us winter freeze people, the deck had come loose due to water/ice heave. My deck is now glassed all the way to the chainplates, so zero change of a repeat. Toe rails..not going back on except forward as required by ORR.
If you want to stiffen the boat: Add a cable from the deck to the mast step. Tighten.
Fresh water: VC 17
I have my original turned forward. It springs a little bit, but that is good as it doesn’t quite ‘hammer’ the deck.
You might consider glassing a wedge on the flange aft surfaces. 1/4″ might be a charm.
Or maybe a guy hook on the boom. The ones that small spin boats use. Put the sheet in it.
I guess I have heard of this, just couldn’t associate the ‘grabber’ name.
Interesting!
I don’t race in those conditions much..but maybe I could hook my twing to the boom somehow and accomplish the same thing!
A small snatch block on a short line on the boom should do it.
Translation? Outgrabber meaning like an outboard strut? Not legal in many handicap systems.
We use twings. Set just aft of the chainplates on the toe rail. If it gets wild, best to head up a few degrees to tame the spinnaker. You will go faster. If not possible, lower the pole a bit and pull on the leeward twing some to square the chute. (depowers)
AND remember…low side eases!!! If you are oscillating to leeward, bring back the pole a bit. If to windward, ease the pole a bit. Better to have pole a little bit forward in case of wipeout. Keep the mast over the boat.
Anyone else want to correct me? I don’t profess to have this down completely!
Bruce
Your LMPHRF Regional Handicapper:
IV Waukegan to Michigan City and the Inland Lakes
and Reservoirs of Illinois and Indiana excluding
Chicagoland
Gene Bach bachgroup@sbcglobal.netCarlyle Lake would fall under the Lake Michigan PHRF. You can get an application @:
LMPHRF.org
It will be good for racing there as well as the Solo Challenges. (Mid Illinois, correct?)
If you have no mods, your rating should come out at 105. I advise you to have your main, largest jib and spinnaker measured by a sailmaker. This will ‘endorse’ your certificate as having measured sails.
Where do you race?
Hawaii gets certificates from US Sailing. Everywhere else they are localized. See your race officer for where you will be racing.
I’m a regional handicapper for Lake Michigan PHRF, for example. Headquarters is Wisconsin. 7 regions under LMPHRF.
Bruce
Here is a link to my Facebook album on the project:
I posted them previously. Search for topic polars on this site.
I just cut the cockpit out of my boat and in process of putting in a new one. I can tell you where the weakness is…Support the companionway under the pit with a bulkhead like the one mid cockpit. The cabin top is totally supported by the front of the cockpit, which was unsupported in my inboard boat.
I don’t think the boat flexes that much. Do you have a turnbuckle on the front of the mast up to a deck attachment? That pulls/holds the deck down..which keeps the hull sides out.
6 to 8 INCH..not foot (separated deck area)
I’ll be doing my boat in a month or so. I’m interested in responses! I bought Awlgrip Grit, but I could be convinced to change.
Put a straight edge on the mast step board. If it has any bow downward you need to measure how much. I replaced my mast step frame with a 2.5″ wide laminated beam. It was pretty easy and is super strong compared to original.
The stock frame is a fir 2×4 that is tapered to the bottom. Once the fiberglass crunches at the top, you are now relying on the wood. On the aft side of the 2×4 is a 1/4″ piece of plywood that is glassed to the frame and bilge sides. If this gets wet, it rots and any hope of support is gone.
If you have 1/4″ or more of drop…plan on doing the job. You’ll be glad you did.
Ray…begs a question…has anyone ever broken a glass post rudder?
My emergency plan doesn’t recognize a long distance haul to port. That might be the difference.
Weld? Sounds heavy. Time to learn the carbon trade!
Spinnaker pole with a plywood addition? Lash/pad to pushpit. It doesn’t take much steering if you adjust the sails.
