Jim Saylor
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The affected areas are probably larger than they appear from the top.
I explore with a 1/4″ drill getting further away from the affected area until clean dry balsa is found.
Before cutting deck glass and removing balsa, prop up/support the inner skin from below. I used 1/8″ plywood screwed to the inside skin and propped up as needed.
We replaced balsa w/ foam. Vacume bagged it down & then glassed an faired. All with epoxy not polyester resin.
All new fittings were over drilled and filled w/ epoxy/glass bog then re-drilled.
Happy to answer any questions.
EMAIL:
jsaylor@aloha.netJason,
Love to see her come here. Do you have results from the Nationals???
Aloha!Unfortunate it is. A great boat that can compete with most any PHRF fleet yet getting a few boats together for a two day Nationals gets little response. How many Olson 30’s are on the Bay??? I bet its over 20.
David,
Where is the container going to or coming from? We have looked at shipping an Olson to Hawaii and have found the shipping to be way too much. Keep me posted as to what you find out.
Aloha, JimOn Fast Company we went to a velcro stap and the outhaul works fine. Gave up the spin pole boom bag. We find that it stays clear when left on deck w/ the mast end attached. Quicker sets and drops. We rarely us our fore guys any more as they just got in the way. We have a short tail on the bridle if we need to attach fore guy.
Truly sad that we can’t get a handful of Olson’s to get on the water. Must be a couple dozen in the bay.
Great boats and a great venue…Zeke,
The relative performance gains are minor. When our boats were built dacron was the norm and the associated loads were less shocking as they are with modern sail materials. The stiffeners were a simple way to prevent damage due to more modern materials and consequently tighter rig tuning. In my opinion 6 seconds is ridicules. Beams and jock straps are allowed under our one design rules w/o penalty why should they be under PHRF.Gary, The partners act as a fulcrum. Any bend will put tension in that area. Better to weld or sleeve it and get the bend you need.
In Hawaii we generally sail in plenty of breeze so we set up with little mast rake. We have wedges on the after side of the partner so we can bend the rig without adding rake. Helps keep the weather helm down.
It takes some time to get rid of the old “put the rail down and power to weather.”
Keep it moving and keep it flat. In a breeze the traveler rarely leaves my hand.On Fast Company we have a small block at on the toe rail at the first stanchion aft of the shrouds. No snatch block as it weighed down the sheet or guy. Simple stainless or Antal ring. Twing sheets to the lower outside of the cabin at the cockpit. Most of the time we don’t us a fore guy which keeps the deck clear when dousing.
Jaws up, always. When jibing the poll must be able to drop out of the guy. On a windward douse or free flying before a drop again the poll must be able to drop free.
Javier, your cracks are not keel join. Michael Hull’s photo’s show keel joint cracks. Very different issue. Don’t worry
Javier,
Not a big deal. I’ve seen it on many Olson’s. Cut it open make sure it’s DRY and repair with glass filled epoxy, maybe cloth on top, fair, barrier coat and paint. EZGreat news. Lets get the largest fleet in years. There are many Olson’s on the bay and many more not far away. Who’s in?
BTW I need a boat.Jason,
Any dates yet for 2015 in Tahoe?
Gary,
No Olson 30’s on Oahu. We have 4 on Kauai. Go to nawiliwiliyachtclub.org and see our schedule. Just a short flight…Shad,
I’ve never filled he cockpit from a stern wave or from numerous deep water, big wave knock downs. The first time we were knocked down was in the Molokai channel. After counting crew while standing on the cockpit wall I remember being quite pleased at how stable she felt while laying on her side. And we had very little water in the cockpit. Storm conditions…I’d have a second reef point in the main and a storm head-sail. What rudder will you be using?Bruce, why do you like vectran over Dyneema?
SWG,
Why would you want to replace your backstay with rod or wire? We have been using class legal dyneema (amsteel) for years. Inexpensive, Very light, little stretch & little if any issues w/ UV (& we are in Hawaii).
Quick and easy to splice to length…I created one using an old VHF antenna with lead shot and epoxy at base with a Pool noodle as buoyancy. Copied the size from another Olson’s poll. Works great! I did test it.
I buy 75′, this allows for stripping the ends and leaves room to end for end them after a couple seasons.
I had the ends of the crack drilled and welded as well as any old holes at the deck. Then replaced the old plate. and painted. Looking good.
We use flight line, very light does not absorb water & I made my own custom soft shackles, light easy and have never come free under any conditions. Maybe I’ll photo and post one day.
Your assuming that someone here on Kauai has that capability. Maybe now that the mast is out I can trace the section and send to someone…Do you know anybody?
ThanksJean,
Boom level is determined by the cut of your main and how much rake you have in your mast. Who built your main?
shad, I would make sure it is dry, treat with west system epoxy, then fill with westSys.& microspheres. A quick sand and rattle can spray.
Gene, I’ll see about a photo this evening. I found some 5/8″? hard polyester/glass strand foam board which some use for bulkheads. Cut 3/4 strips glued at corners w/ small inside triangles, cut & shaped the corners and glassed w/ epoxy. Then glassed to old hatch opening and installed new hatch. One could use wood too.
We installed a Lewmar low profile with the hinges forward. Had to add a 1/2″ flange around the hatch seat. Works great.
You can apply for one with US Sailing.
