Bruce Hubble
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Jim, I’ll be in Kauai in October…maybe catch up with you? Bruce Hubble, Spar Wars
Don’t know about the Garhauer. My Boomkicker has a mount above the vang attachment.
If it is a brand Boom Kicker..no mods necessary.
I’m ready for the winches….make me an offer!
Todd is correct. Every boat, NOR or not, should have individual harnesses, jacklines, lights for each crew harness with whistle; mandatory life jackets at night; MOB poles with strobe/drogue/life ring; EPIRB; mandatory paper charts; GPS; Parachute flares/handheld flares; radar reflector. Mandatory knife for each crew as well has a cockpit knife. Engines mandatory with a fuel range of 2x the width of the lake. Extra battery for when your lights go dim from use. You don’t have a way to charge your battery. If you lose your rig..cutters and tools to toss the rig quickly! VHF base unit and a separate handheld.
On another note: two mains are not legal in most rules. Reef points..you should rig them if you don’t usually use them. If you have none…they can be retro’d at the sailmaker.
Look at the equipment necessary for the Chicago Mac Race. You are one thunderstorm away from hoping your crew stays on board. The capsize in the ChiMac last year was spotted ONLY because of a strobe. http://www.racetomackinac.com Look for the documents..MSR for monohulls. Help from the Coast Guard will be a couple of hours if you are lucky. Other boats may be in as much trouble as you are.
Last…cell phones with a link to weather radar.
Hate to throw water on equipping your boat minimally, but offshore at night is a survival trip. I agree again with Todd…to reduce safety for a minimal stability boat (103 is min for ChiMac) that rates around 105 stability at best, is questionable. Especially with no reef points. I trust the Olson as much as anyone. But the responsibility to make the crew AND myself have the best chances in the worst case scenerio is mine. I do question the organizer on your waivers…minimal night gear is a must.
Milwaukee Rigging on Ebay has been good for Endura Braid and Dyneema content ropes. I’ve bought 66′ ‘ends’ for little money.
Rigging Only is priced good all the time, better on parts/blocks. Mauri Pro can be good as well.
Lengths:
Main: 65 plus length to cleat
Jib: 75 plus length to cleat
Spinnaker: 75 plus length to cleat
Gen Sheets: 66 ft. Less if you don’t go with longer tails.
Main Sheet: depends on your blocks. My last replace was 66 ft. (Harken double/double/single)You can always shorten after installation..but too short = expensive dock lines
From Mauri Pro:
Main Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) V-100
Jib Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) V-100
Spinnaker Halyard (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) Endura Braid
Mainsheet= 9mm Salsa
Jib Sheet= 3/8″ (10mm) SSC SK75
Spinnaker Sheet (Tappered)= 5/16″ (8mm) Flight LineI would agree with all of these. I went 10mm Endura Braid for spinnaker sheets and stripped off about 1/2 of the cover. Very light, good handling, waterproof and strong. Spinnaker halyards could be VPC or even StaSet X. You don’t worry about stretch with those.
cheek, as in jib turning blocks? Zero deck flex. Put in some plywood for backers if you are getting flex.
Bought a tricolor on ebay…$29? Then I put in a LED bulb. This can’t weigh more than a few oz’s. I prefer the light up top, plus it lights my windex at night.
105 for OB’s on Lake Michigan. I suggest before comparing PHRF ratings you look to a boat to compare regions to: J/24 is 168 in Lake Michigan.
IRC..Opus Dei raced IRC in the Port Huron to Mac. Not sure how he liked it. Attached is his older IRC for references to your boat.
and elliptical vs stock rudder.
Should add it to the backstay discussion. :)
I did my rudder/bearing re-install all by myself. To make it easy, do this:
1. Install the lower bearing on the shaft. Tap the bearing down with a piece of wood and hammer. If it is real tight..move it up and sand the shaft some.
2. Install the upper bearing at the top tube, but resist tapping it all the way down.
3. Push the rudder up the tube and work it into the top bearing. Once up..have the tiller bolt ready to insert for fine adjustments.
4. I pushed the rudder up as far as possible and placed blocks of wood under it to hold it up. The top of the rudder shouldn’t scrape the bottom of the boat during a 360 spin.
5. Try putting the tiller cap back on with the thru bolt. If it won’t..work the bearing down with a wood dowel and hammer until you can. Leaving the bearing ‘up’ takes out some up and down slop. Bearing shims would be best, but mine were worn out.A friend of mine made a puller. Couple of beers and some ideas..it worked!
Weld a strong washer to the top of a rod. Make the rod about two feet long. Put a 6″ piece of pipe over the rod and weld a ‘stopper’ on the bottom. This makes a cheap puller by using the pipe as a slide hammer.
Dale, That will be an easy fix. Just remember you have to sand epoxy first and between coats…and make sure the epoxy you are using is compatible. Polyester vs regular can be a problem. May not be a big deal here since it is not cosmetic or structural.
I just installed mine this spring. I have a fiberglass shaft and had to lightly sand the shaft to get them on. Snuggly tight now.
If you have a fiberglass shaft…consider sanding the shaft bearing surfaces and adding a coat of epoxy or two to bring them to snug. If you have a stainless…hmmmm..might put in a call to Pride to see if they make them at their shop. You might find they can find (or make) a pair of smaller inside diameter pieces to send you.
You don’t want slop.
specs are here:
http://www.olson30.org/the-boat/tips-and-tweaks/rudders
Someone could create a CAD from the specs.
I have these specs:
hmm…can’t attach file. I’ll find another way.
I just put new Pride bearings in. I had to lightly sand the post for a snug fit. Otherwise..a great fit.
I have the fiberglass post. Since the built in tube is ‘stock’..does it matter which rudder or post? Get new bearings. From what I’ve heard…the fiberglass post is preferred?
Just purchased a ‘plastic’ main. The cost was about the $400 more than a good dacron. The dacron will be shot in two years..might get double that (shape wise) from the Aramid. As far as North…the carbon sails are way too expensive for this league, but they are your choice. I think the 3dl 600 would do and is way less money I’m guessing. I’m a fan of Quantum and their pricing is more reasonable for higher tech sails. Carbon..noo way. Load path Aramid should do it.
being a wise ass: consider an umbrella at mast top.
Otherwise..you know..I never considered the track as a source of water. Does the gooseneck stop it? I’m curious now..will look today when SW3 takes its 2012 maiden voyage.
If there is no “stop”..I’ll put a silicone ‘herseys kiss’ down low somewhere to act as a diverter.
Can’t help you with the spreader patch. Don’t know what the hole looks like. Maybe just some aluminum material with alum rivets?
pic showing lifelines
24 1/2 is enough for two. I leave the lowers slightly loose for better hiking. Yes you can get under them, even tight.
Garhauer’s stanchions are SS tubes. The old stanchions I had were like a cast aluminum. Mine broke off just slapping a dock post. The SS ones hitting the same dock post just flip off with a slight deflection.
Standard size works and the shorter ones are ‘legal’. I have to use a rubber mallet to get mine in, so I don’t have the loose issue. They have several tips on the top…I got the pointy ones thinking the jib would slide over easier; not true. Go for the fattest round top one. For the price..replace them all, you won’t be sorry. $30 each? I got the SS TT. I think the SS CT would maybe be better.
I went with the 24 inch Garhaurers. They are stainless and are holding up very well. My ‘sockets’ are tight. I prevent problems by pulling them each fall; blowing out the water with air..tape over the hole. Could add anti-freeze, but that is messy and I’m not sure if out in the weather it wouldn’t lose its effectiveness.
Are you in salt?
I have 2 Asails now. A1 & A3. PHRF does not penalize in our area. The SF has to be less than a Sym and in most cases they are. They do penalize if you get near a CODE O.
As far as one design…if courses are W/L..the A sails are slow. Maybe the NOR for a port to port would allow the A sails in the class?
Disclaimer: I’m not a paid member..my Inboard and keel mods keep me out of One Design and thus the Constitution.
Modified Pushpit: There was a brief forum on modifying the pushpit to allow a wire or high tech lifeline across the back of the stern. This would allow a gate access to the stern.
This could be useful for retrieving a MOB or just convenience of operating the outboard. Stern docking would be improved.
The present ‘single bar’ does little but provide aft safety (that a gate would replace) and possibly structural help to the sides of the pushpits. It may require a stanchion brace to each side, which is an easy fix.
Since this is not a performance enhancement, permission should be easy to approve.
Rod vs wire? Ask Ballenger. He is very helpful to Olson owners.
Ray..loaded it might weigh close to 4300 without the trailer.
